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Center valve block was easy, a little contaminant but not a lot. Front was a little harder as the center valve was stuck and came apart when i was wiggling it out with the lower half stuck in the housing.
Quick test drive after swapping the front block and rebuilding the center and so far so good, will leave as is til next weekend then i'll put my rebuilt front block in then the compressor.
I'll rebuild the rear block after everything else settles down.
That was never going to work. This specific code effectively means "the gallery pressure has increased above 5 bar by itself and I've had to vent it 10 times". The only thing that can cause this one is a leaking valve letting pressure from a bag or the reservoir back into the gallery.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
Sir Brad, the master of Air. Would you preemptively service your valve blocks at 400k km even if they’re not giving any issues, or leave well enough alone? I have it all apart so tempted, but also live by the “if it’s not broke, don’t touch it” after too many times of “fixing” things that’s aren’t broken and making problems. I feel like I’ve answered my question.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
I was also getting suspension raising slowly which is why I did the compressor swap first.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
I'd tend to agree with you. If however a problem does surface, do the whole lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Back when I did mine in 2021 it was a front or center valve block issue. 4 years down the track the rear block needs doing because I didn't do it back then.
So this time I'll do the whole lot again, including a compressor service.
Ok so i thought all was well but still getting eas errors like reservoir filling slowly and suspension dropping while driving, i need to do more diagnosing.
Usually when ive had the normal height only blah,blah dash message i dont have any issues and i can carry on but lately if i get the message it sometimes drops in the front within 20-30mins, i clear the codes and re-enable EAS and it will raise be fine for 1-2 days and stays up overnight.
So far i have swapped in a good working compressor and front valve block which did nothing, rebuilt original front block and re-fitted then rebuilt the center block whilst i was at it.
That lasted about 2 days then started the circus again, i had to clear codes before i left work yesterday and suspension stayed up overnight and is still up now [bighmmm].
Time to get the soapy water out again and test for leaks.
Stop past a refrigeration parts supplier and grab a spray bottle of Big-Blu. That stuff sticks like **** to a blanket and will show up the smallest leak.
For the "raising slowly" you either have a significant leak or the compressor just isn't up to snuff. Watch the gallery pressure when it pumps up and see if actually makes it to 17 bar.
I expect a leak somewhere but its odd that it will stay up overnight and only drop if i get the error while driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
No visible external leaks anywhere inc the front valve block electrical socket as these have been known to crack and leak, i pulled apart my original compressor that i rebuilt 5 years and the crankcase was full of black powder debris and the piston is a little sloppy in the cylinder.
Took my spare off the car and checked the piston/cylinder and it had no signs of wear so put the best of both together and refitted, gallery pressure gets to about 230 psi then compressor cuts out and it holds at about 224 psi with car in offroad height and Llams at highest position.
Keep an eye on the hp feed pipe from the pump to reservoir. Mine had been rubbing on the electric connection block and chaffed through courtesy of the abundance of dust. I wrap the plug in some bubble wrap now.
I had one of those mythical air up kits from Gordon and it had a bunch of short spare hoses and some hose joiners. Cut off the damaged end and back in business. The price on that little hose off the charts.
Excellent spares some joiners and hose.