what was the crimper with cable on it used for??
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what was the crimper with cable on it used for??
It's not a crimper, it's a remote/ flexible hose clamp plier, makes things slightly less impossible.
You can get them from Super cheap. They'll change your life.. There so good. eBay etc probably has them too..Quote:
Originally Posted by shack
Random things I meant to mention for those playing along at home:
Unplugging the the pressure control valve and volume control valve on the HPFP does not seem to throw any code at all, that's strange.
Pulling the low pressure fuel pump relay throws several codes to do with both low fuel pressure and high rail pressure at the same time.... Go figure.
If you have fuel to the Schrader valve, but the car won't build rail pressure, it's most likely the pump, I couldn't believe how little bleeding was required to fire it up, if the HPFP is ok, it builds pressure really quickly,
I initially thought I just had an airlock, but now think that it is really unlikely for that to ever happen.
I have been told that some older vehicles with a failing pump have gone for a service , had the fuel filter done, and have not been able to be started until the HPFP is replaced.
The rear belt on the 2.7 isn't really that hard to do, maybe a couple hrs......just pull off as much stuff as you can and don't try and cut corners by leaving things in place, so that's EGR crossover coolant pipe, all the looms that run behind the motor to behind the battery, I think if you undo the 2 nuts on top of the HPFP belt cover, you can pull the looms even further out of the way, just remember less is more.... Less crap in the way equals more speed!
Cheers
James
Just my own observation and nothing more...
Using this thread as the example.
*When an engine wont start, dont pull off more parts and replace them, as in x-over pipe, rear drive belt (hey cuz it wont start so lets add another variable into the equation)
*cross each bridge when you come to it.
*My own example on a weekly basis when doing the front timing belt and rear drive belt on a 3.0lt D4, I do one of the belts, start it up, all good. Next belt. (sometimes I do the rear belt first, sometimes the other way round).
*The supposed time saving in doing both front and rear belts in the one foul swoop is the time I take to have a coffee or do a post on AULRO.
*For future reference...
*I don't recommend cracking high pressure injector feed lines to bleed it, its pointless and the pressure on idle is somewhere round 3000psi which is enough to inject diesel/air into your skin.
*The low pressure fuel pump in the tank should pump 6 - 8 psi when reading at the valve.
Thanks for the tip,Quote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
I probably didn't explain the order of things very well,
The only thing done after the car wouldn't start was checking the front and rear belts were sound, they were... so then replaced the HPFP, as I figured with the vehicle a LONG way overdue for the belts, it was quite possible one had let go, which would explain no rail pressure of course.
Fairly early on I figured out that the low pressure system is regulated to .5 bar so that answered most of the other questions, and yes, no one should ever crank a common rail system with the high pressure lines undone!! No matter what may have been alluded to earlier.