Thread: D3 TDV6 EGR delete

Out of interest did those who have done this mod notice a lot of, or any difference in performance, lag, fuel economy?

Originally Posted by PeterOZ

Out of interest did those who have done this mod notice a lot of, or any difference in performance, lag, fuel economy?

A big difference in performance, no lag and fuel economy still good. Well worth the expense of the patch. Nick

Originally Posted by PeterOZ

Out of interest did those who have done this mod notice a lot of, or any difference in performance, lag, fuel economy?

I've noticed a "run on" when I lift the accelerator pedal. It happens at every gear change and results in a little "engine flare" when I put the clutch in. Also from time to time when idling around I get odd behaviour (like get off the throttle entirely and the engine speeds up for a second or so). Wasn't there pre DPF & EGR patches. No biggie really but definitely different.

Originally Posted by PeterOZ

Out of interest did those who have done this mod notice a lot of, or any difference in performance, lag, fuel economy?

To be honest I didn't notice much of a difference but the inlet tract has remained very clean to the point I have only cleaned the sensor twice since I blanked it and this was more out of habit rather than it being dirty. The difference that it has made to the cleanliness has been amazing.

Originally Posted by murray073

To be honest I didn't notice much of a difference but the inlet tract has remained very clean to the point I have only cleaned the sensor twice since I blanked it and this was more out of habit rather than it being dirty. The difference that it has made to the cleanliness has been amazing.

I have done in the past two months the BAS EGR delete with blanking shims (very thin) he provides. If you have long extensions and swivel for 1/4” drive it’s quite easy to access the bolts on top of the EGRs. Load rags around the EGRs as you will drop something to catch it without losing the bit into the nether regions as nothing dropped ever makes it to the ground in my D3 experience.

The heater core pipes that run over the drivers side EGR have a restraint clip that is hard to remove and easy to break. Ask me how I know - now cable tie assisted. Not critical.

BY FAR THE WORST PART OF THIS JOB is the incredible mess involved in cleaning out the muck in the intake Y. Be prepared for this. Mine was 50% smaller in internal diameter. Soaking and scrubbing in diesel worked for me but you’ll need 3x more rags than you dreamed.

Also incredibly hard was removing the the throttle like flap in the Y intake manifold. Mine would not pop out like the instructions and I snapped off the cap. In the end I had to dremmel cut off the plastic throttle flap and glue back on the cap to reinstall the actuator motor.

The concept of the BAS system with shims for Blighty customers is that it all looks legit on the outside. If I had my druthers I’d remove the pipes and stubs in the manifold and blank top and bottom with plates just to be rid of some clutter.

At the same time I also changed the coolant plastic block under the intake manifold since access is there.

With all the mess and coolant block change allow 4 hours for a first timer. Approximately the same time again in days for your hands to not have black stains on them.

Last but not least apply BAS patch software.

Do I notice a change? Marginal at best but probably without the intake being 50% restricted engine response is crisper / sharper. At least MAP sensor will never be dirty again.

what an incredible amount of crud, yuk.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I have done in the past two months the BAS EGR delete with blanking shims (very thin) he provides. If you have long extensions and swivel for 1/4” drive it’s quite easy to access the bolts on top of the EGRs. Load rags around the EGRs as you will drop something to catch it without losing the bit into the nether regions as nothing dropped ever makes it to the ground in my D3 experience.

The heater core pipes that run over the drivers side EGR have a restraint clip that is hard to remove and easy to break. Ask me how I know - now cable tie assisted. Not critical.

BY FAR THE WORST PART OF THIS JOB is the incredible mess involved in cleaning out the muck in the intake Y. Be prepared for this. Mine was 50% smaller in internal diameter. Soaking and scrubbing in diesel worked for me but you’ll need 3x more rags than you dreamed.

Also incredibly hard was removing the the throttle like flap in the Y intake manifold. Mine would not pop out like the instructions and I snapped off the cap. In the end I had to dremmel cut off the plastic throttle flap and glue back on the cap to reinstall the actuator motor.

The concept of the BAS system with shims for Blighty customers is that it all looks legit on the outside. If I had my druthers I’d remove the pipes and stubs in the manifold and blank top and bottom with plates just to be rid of some clutter.

At the same time I also changed the coolant plastic block under the intake manifold since access is there.

With all the mess and coolant block change allow 4 hours for a first timer. Approximately the same time again in days for your hands to not have black stains on them.

Last but not least apply BAS patch software.

Do I notice a change? Marginal at best but probably without the intake being 50% restricted engine response is crisper / sharper. At least MAP sensor will never be dirty again.

Thats well blocked, mine had barely any in that section but in the intakes where the non functioning butterflies are mine were about 50% blocked.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Thats well blocked, mine had barely any in that section but in the intakes where the non functioning butterflies are mine were about 50% blocked.

It can only clog up downstream of the intake spigots where the EGR pipes enter the Y manifold which is about an inch behind where it splits into two (see hole in photo). It was similarly gunked up inside the actual plastic intake manifold on each side of engine. I literally scraped and vacuumed it out.

That’s an engine with 240k kms and regular <10k km oil changes.