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Thread: Low Pressure Fuel Pump replacement - 2006 Discovery 3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    3

    Low Pressure Fuel Pump replacement - 2006 Discovery 3

    Hey guys,
    I am new here and relatively new to Land Rover ownership. I have recently purchased a Discovery 3 (2006 model, 2.7l TDv6). I have run into issue after issue since buying mostly due to not doing my homework and buying a bit of a lemon. I absolutely love the car though.

    My mechanic has said I need to replace the low pressure fuel pump, but has quoted me in excess of $1600 to replace it. I wouldn't mind doing the work myself as I am quite handy when following a guide but I don't know where to start as far as parts purchasing goes or what tools I might need for the job. I have found several listed on EBay for around $225, which seems a lot easier on the wallet than $1600.

    If anyone else has done anything like this before I would love to hear how you did it and what you needed to get it done. Conversely, if I should just bite the bullet and pay to have it replaced professionally feel free to let me know that as well.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    17,640
    To gain access you need to drop the fuel tank.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    3
    Thanks mate, I'm aware of that. Have you ever dropped the fuel tank? I know the basics of it, just not sure if I should get any specific tools/read any specific guides before climbing underneath and getting stuck in.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,236
    There are a number of good threads on the UK Disco3 forum. The general consensus seems to be it's a bit of a pig of a job, but doable at home. On that basis, use a genuine LR pump assembly as the aftermarket ones don't have a great reputation and it's not a job you want to voluntarily do twice.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    Hatton Vale qld
    Posts
    16

    Fuel pump

    I am afraid to say that most jobs on the tdv6 is or are a pig of a job. I have a 2005 disco 3 no end of problems. Injectors, leaking rocker cover gaskets, knackered oil cooler, cracked dash, plastic mouldings missing clips and sun baked. Door straps busted. But as someone said looks nice sitting on the side of the road waiting for the two truck again. U need a good bank account to keep it running. If I had a gun I would shoot it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Orroroo
    Posts
    866
    No special tools are needed really as far as hand tools.

    But I did use the hoist and gearbox Jack.

    If I was doing it again:

    Pull the LPFP relay, bridge it and pump all the fuel out of the tank via the Schrader valve.

    Depending on what year the car is it will have 1 of 2 different fuel filter styles, the hoses running back to the tank Will need disconnecting there. The tank guard is what actually holds the tank in, it is not bolted separately.

    It's pretty awkward with only one person working on it, I really don't know how you would do it without a hoist, or at the very least a pit.

    Most of the fittings that need removing from the top of the tank can be removed without too much bother, but get it as clean as possible with compressed air before starting.

    The are 3 multiplugs (that cannot be inserted improperly due to design) that need unplugging and at least one other pipe fitting in tank.

    Getting the pump in and out of the tank is a nightmare IMO, there is a retaining band that the needs unclipping but it's nearly impossible without getting the pump out first.

    From memory all the pipes that run forward need pulling up through the hole before the pump, that will "simply" follow the pipes.

    Disassembling the pump is pretty easy of your are only going to remove the pump module itself, but you may need a heat gun for one of the pipes.

    Re inserting the pump in the tank is akin to reverse childbirth, the worst 2 bits are getting the fuel gauge arm back over the obstructions and between the mount and tank wall, without bending it, which I managed, and of course refitting the retaining strap.

    All the best..

    I would do my own again if I had too though.

    Belated question... What's it doing that requires a replacement?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Tingha NSW
    Posts
    72

    YouTube help for D3 and D4

    Quote Originally Posted by BSTACK View Post
    Hey guys,
    I am new here and relatively new to Land Rover ownership. I have recently purchased a Discovery 3 (2006 model, 2.7l TDv6). I have run into issue after issue since buying mostly due to not doing my homework and buying a bit of a lemon. I absolutely love the car though.

    My mechanic has said I need to replace the low pressure fuel pump, but has quoted me in excess of $1600 to replace it. I wouldn't mind doing the work myself as I am quite handy when following a guide but I don't know where to start as far as parts purchasing goes or what tools I might need for the job. I have found several listed on EBay for around $225, which seems a lot easier on the wallet than $1600.

    If anyone else has done anything like this before I would love to hear how you did it and what you needed to get it done. Conversely, if I should just bite the bullet and pay to have it replaced professionally feel free to let me know that as well.
    You might like to have a look at LR Drive on YouTube. Land Rover Drive - YouTube

    Also LR Time for lots of good German engineering saving $1000s of hard earned.

    LR TIME - YouTube

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post

    Belated question... What's it doing that requires a replacement?
    Hey mate,
    It doesn't start when cold/sitting for a while. It'll turn over right away and conk out 2-3 seconds later. It will start again after cranking for 5-10 seconds and run rough for a little while before sorting itself out. Mechanic said the fuel pressure was low and that indicated it might be the LPFP. Changed the fuel filter and a few other things myself just to make sure that was it and all signs seem to be pointing to that.

    Every now and then it'll run rough as well and I need to bleed the fuel line and then it's right as rain again.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Orroroo
    Posts
    866
    That's a bummer, hopefully you can find a quality replacement.

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