I’m yet to find the time to delete the lot also.
That hose is a pita to change.
One of our MY12 D4's with the 2.7 TDV6 (same as D3) has a coolant leak. Looks like this top hose has dropped down and rubbed on the pulley below:
I believe that this hose is LR004537 / LR006638 Hose Inlet Cooled EGR.
The vehicle has the EGR blanking kit < https://www.britpart.com/parts/perfo...d-tubes/da1112 > and BAS EGR deactivation patch < https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store...-for-road-use/ > fitted.
I'd assume therefore that the EGR coolers are no longer required and no longer required to have a coolant flow going through them.
Is there a method of deleting/bypassing the coolant system from the EGR coolers and making this hose redundant? The benefit would be to simplify the coolant piping (you'd remove the cooling hose loop that runs entirely around the engine) and reduce areas for failure. One issue may be that there is a bleed point on the rear metal pipe for this loop. Another consideration may be if the coolant flow through the coolers prolongs there life before the exhaust gas leak through.
It looks to me like it'd be a matter of joining these two hoses here on the opposite (drivers) side of the engine:
Or, given that there is a mini thermostat (3) in the EGR coolers, am I better off capping the outlets for these?
Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
Dads - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
Sister-in-laws - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8
I’m yet to find the time to delete the lot also.
That hose is a pita to change.
*Quick answer, yes to delete all the egr from the cooling system and exhaust.
*I do it on all my 2.7lt engine changes.
*There are two versions of the cooling system for a 2.7, early and late (I guess)
*I remove the excess hoses, I machine up blanking plugs etc.
*blank exhaust, tune out the functionality.
*At some point I will try to post the pics.
*The D4 is more complicated, but also possible
Regards
Daz
After some disassembly I found the actual cause of why the hose had managed to contact and rub on the serpentine belt pulley below it.
This Norma RSGU 27 pipe retaining clip has a larger internal diameter than the external diameter of the hose it secures in place. This allows the hose to drop lower than ideal if it's not all assembled exactly right (which it clearly wasn't after I did the timing belt - well done me...).
Changing this to a smaller pipe retaining clip resolves this and ensures the hose is held in place high enough. I had a spare size 25 on hand which proved this theory, but the internal diameter was smaller than ideal for the hoses external diameter. Size 26 < NORMA RSGU 1. 26/15 W5 | NORMA Group > would be the sweet spot.
The Engine Cooling - TDV6 2.7L Diesel - Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding procedure in the Land Rover workshop manual doesn't refer to the bleed screw point on the EGR cooler circuit at all in the bleeding process which added to my suspicion that this coolant circuit is solely for the EGR cooler purpose making me more comfortable to eliminate it.
Followed the two hoses from the EGR cooling circuit, down to where they connect to two seperate black plastic t-pieces near the thermostat of the bottom radiator hose assembly. The two hoses and barbs are different sizes to each other.
I found a 19mm (or 3/4") blanking cap (left over spare that I keep on hand for my D2a TD5's behind the turbocharger water outlet) was the correct fitment for the smaller and a 25mm (or 1") for the larger. Tried all the industrial and hose specialists locally and only one had a 25mm blanking cap in stock - it's fairly thin rubber and I'm not very comfortable with it's quality (it looks like a door stopper to me!). I've ordered some better quality replacements online - Samco Sport silicone units:
25mm - Silicone Blanking Cap 25mm Bore Black - Samco Sport
19mm - Silicone Blanking Cap 19mm Bore Black - Samco Sport
Alternatively you could possibly purchase a new right angle joiner for the smaller and a straight joiner for the larger one. For the larger t-piece the two inline connection barbs are definitely larger than the 25mm of the t-off connection barb. Not sure about the smaller unit but looks like the three barbs are all the same size for that one.
For now I've left the bulk of the piping in place incase I need to revert back.
So next up is to now stop the exhaust gas flowing into the EGR coolers - as eventually these will corrode through and fail.
Spoke to Pete Bell at Bell Auto Service who provided the EGR Deactivation Patch and he's not sure if issues will be caused by the entire removal of the EGR cooler units as they leave them in place to assist with their MOT inspection compliance. Reading some threads on here I found:
D3 EGR Valve Removal Latest Options?
So it's likely I can just get some of the Td5 EGR delete blanking plates with suitably longer bolts, and slip them in between the exhaust manifold outlet and EGR cooler stopping the exhaust flow into the EGR cooler but retaining the units in place to avoid upset to the electronics (discorevy also suggested leaving them in place as they form a bit of a heatshield for the exhaust system).
Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
Dads - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
Sister-in-laws - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8
Looking forward to a comprehensive DIY and YouTube video on this subject
I leave the stepper motor and mechanical valve of the EGR connected (just sit it on top of the engine) until its been run on the dyno and tuned out.
After that I unplug it and heat shrink or plasti dip the ends of the plugs.
I did originally ponder the same question relating to the egr physically being a heat shield but went with ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds and adding some heat wrap over the fuel pipes that run down the drivers side of the engine. Which honestly I think is over the top.
I didnt go with a rubber blank end as over time just like on a D2a with that rubber blank end its prone to bursting through the rubber.
Regards
Daz
Let me know when you find them.
How are you blanking off the cooling system?
Removing the plastic t-pieces to replace the small one with a 19mm (3/4") right angle joiner and the larger one with a ? unknown size straight joiner might be better as less opportunities for leak and failure. But I'd be hesitant to use a metal as it potentially introduces another element into the cooling system and I don't know enough about metallurgy or chemistry to understand what effect that could have. So sticking with plastic requires something heat and fluid rated - not sure that the durability or life of plastic in a hot environment in necessarily much longer.
Fingers crossed those silicone blanking caps are long lasting - they're certainly thick enough and have enough price on them...
Out of interest, what is more complicated about it on the D4? It sounds like I've done almost the same process as you've described.
Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
Dads - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
Sister-in-laws - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8
On my td5 I used Mackay BC19 (which is about 5mm thick all round) and filled it half up with an adhesive silicone, I found over the years (on various vehicles) this works well as it forms a nice plug internally and glues into the opening, basically once set makes the cap redundant.
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