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Thanks Eric, I use a similar train of thought with a lot of things on this project 😊. I think I might change the bolts at least, these ones are a little corroded and replacements are not too costly. I will have a closer look at the rubber mounts and see if any really need replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Thanks for your input.
Soooo, seems like my niggling feeling was correct; I had a look over things again and found I had forgotten to disconnect the earth lead under front LHS wheel arch. I still haven't tried lifting the body yet as it was getting late and didn't want to expose any new issues. Hopefully by the weekend I should have enough time to attempt body removal and start the real work on removing the old engine and preparing the new :eek2: .
Also, while I was checking things over I noticed what I think should be the front diff breather, is not actually connected to anything; one end is in the engine bay near the battery and is a black tube with a white elbow fitting on it, the other end goes down through a hole in the body and just ends without connecting to anything. Please can someone shed some light on what this is meant to be? I have attached images.
Attachment 174599 Attachment 174602
Cheers.
That’s your battery breather plugs into the side of the battery in the battery box.
Diff breather is a black tube that runs up the side of the radiator on passenger side. Visible from the top in between the AC pipes and where the transmission cooler line connects to the radiator.
Battery vent?
Awesome, thanks mate. Looks like it's OK then.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Hi All - so, it has finally happened: I got the body off the frame :). It was an intense experience but ran relatively smoothly, the main issues I had were:
a) I forgot one harness near the front right hand corner of vehicle.
b) Steering column didn't want to separate while I was lifting body. I overcame this with some WD40 and turning the steering wheel side to side for a bit to loosen it up.
Attachment 174625
I don't think I will immediately get to removing the engine until I get myself another engine stand - I would just prefer being able to have both engines side by side securely. On this - has anyone had experience having a 2.7 on an engine stand and still have the flex plate attached? The reason I ask is that the stand I have the Territory motor on currently, wouldn't accommodate the flex plate being attached as the mounting brackets were fouling it. I didn't think this was an issue until I thought about how I was going to lock the timing to change the belts :eek2:. It could just be the stand I currently have but any advise on this would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Oh the luxury, you can get to everything now without needing to be double jointed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Haha I know - it is definitely a luxury to have all that access now. Will try do as much as I can now while it's convenient.
Hi All,
It's been a while since there was an update. Progress is small but still ongoing. I have now removed the old (damaged) engine from the D3 and am at the stage where I am preparing the donor engine (ie. swapping over land rover parts from original and updating belts, pulleys, pumps etc).
Upon removing the timing cover from the donor motor I was surprised to see significant damage to the timing belt edge. The engine has done 146k km and i do not know if it has had a timing belt change before.
Attachment 176646Attachment 176647Attachment 176645
Is that damage because the belt has aged and extended? Or is there something else I should be worried about?
Cheers
I'd say that has not been changed in 146000km. There should be date code stamped on the belt that would help confirm. That sort of edge wear would be due to a pulley bearing or pulley being worn and so the belt doesn't track right.
