Thread: Cleaning Prior to Installing New Oil Cooler Has Created Major Issues

*I clean the valley out before I replace it if it's particularly bad and then do it after.
*I use degreaser and pressure wash it, I dont see the issue, obviously you don't sit there spraying sensors etc and then leave it to dry.
*The most common one is the oil pressure sensor (tall with a green plug on the end) that one is prone to needing a spray with some electrical cleaner.
*You can give the plugs (while connected) a spray with silicone spray before you wash it.

Have now completed this with great thanks to Shanes Shed and LRTime great videos.

I was noticing my coolant bottle was getting more and more fouled and had previously changed coolant.

There’s a few earlier threads on this coolant bottle fouling issue in older D3s that consistently reference the oil cooler. JustinC was a great contributor.

Also for many years a persistent oil leak at back of engine. I’ve done the servicing myself for years and am hyper vigilant on not spilling oil in the valley when removing the oil filter.

All went smoothly and there was a full bath of oil under the cooler I sucked out with my oil sucker.

Removing the crank breather was a nightmare I needed several breaks to clear the tears as was sure was going to break something. There’s two electric connections on the fuel pump that are in the firing line. Eventually I compared the two videos and realised the different fuel pumps EU3/4 make a different restriction. LR Time shows the latter and it worked eventually.

While all this was out and engine harness out the way also changed the fuel pump belt which was much easier than anticipated. Plenty of access at this point.

Also new thermostat and coolant bottle to finish off. I recommend x100 get yourself one of those Ebay hose clamp tools with an extension. This job would be a nightmare without it. Best tool ever.

No alarms or faults on startup. No broken fuel hose fittings.

I reckon you get about double the coolant to drop out when you remove the thermostat. I have a filled 10 litre container not including what I spilled.

I removed all that crap plastic cable conduit that cracks and falls everywhere. Vacuumed it out and replaced with fabric harness tape. Much neater and cleaner now on top of engine.

253k kms

Large Reach Hose Clamp Plier Flexible Shaft 630mm Fuel Oil Water Hose Auto Tool 541909128995 | eBay


Grime in bottle




Bath time


Slippery sucker


Like a new one


Visible only by phone and feel. Managed by some miracle not to drop anything.


Reassembly. Replaced orings in the intake Y as old ones were just rocks with no elasticity


14 years old vs new


A super easy job with that clamp tool


14 year old coolant bottle yw

I’m not sure how the oil cooler cools effectively when it is sitting in a chip fryer of hot oil?

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I’m not sure how the oil cooler cools when it is sitting in a chip fryer of hot oil?

It makes no difference. It’s not transferring to air - it’s transferring to coolant, so the outside of it isn’t of much concern

Being a clean freak is what bought this project undone. When I removed the intake manifold it was oil contaminated, both the MAP sensor and EGR inlet were clogged with grime. I cleaned the EGR inlet with stove cleaner, a method I have used on the EGR components of my Tojo Hilux. The MAP sensor I soaked in brake cleaner and blew out with compressed air. THIS IS AN OBVIOUS NO NO.

Test on the MAP using a multimeter revealed it had its 5V supply but no voltage output. Exchanged the MAP, cleared the DTCs that this damaged component created, vehicle running without fault and more responsive.

Originally Posted by Gravy

Being a clean freak is what bought this project undone. When I removed the intake manifold it was oil contaminated, both the MAP sensor and EGR inlet were clogged with grime. I cleaned the EGR inlet with stove cleaner, a method I have used on the EGR components of my Tojo Hilux. The MAP sensor I soaked in brake cleaner and blew out with compressed air. THIS IS AN OBVIOUS NO NO.

Test on the MAP using a multimeter revealed it had its 5V supply but no voltage output. Exchanged the MAP, cleared the DTCs that this damaged component created, vehicle running without fault and more responsive.

lol. You applied compressed air to a sensitive pressure sensing device? Do you open Easter eggs with a sledge hammer?

It clearly wasn’t obvious, to you anyway, as you did it

Originally Posted by Gravy

Being a clean freak is what bought this project undone. When I removed the intake manifold it was oil contaminated, both the MAP sensor and EGR inlet were clogged with grime. I cleaned the EGR inlet with stove cleaner, a method I have used on the EGR components of my Tojo Hilux. The MAP sensor I soaked in brake cleaner and blew out with compressed air. THIS IS AN OBVIOUS NO NO.

Test on the MAP using a multimeter revealed it had its 5V supply but no voltage output. Exchanged the MAP, cleared the DTCs that this damaged component created, vehicle running without fault and more responsive.

I’d did my EGRs and manifold clean prior so avoided that catastrophic mess. And that endless shower of cracked conduit is a major pain. Every harness you touch disintegrates down into the valley so blocking holes and a shop vac is essential.

Another hour of work but I now have removed conduit remnants and recovered with harness (fleece) tape. A great product and cheap as chips.

I do have a recurring MAF 1010-00 code but no engine lights so something new brewing there.