Thread: Handy with a 3D printer?

Originally Posted by incisor

Petg struggles over time I found so i went to asa and that sorted it out

abs is okay if you can get around the fumes while printing it

Pc/cf if your really serious

I don't care about the fumes, Inc, but what print temp is required?

I heard too many people tell me ABS is just too hard to get a good print with.

Remember this print has a massive base and walls and will want to warp as it prints. In the end I had two corners lift, but as it’s the base of a hanging container, it’s not a big deal and not noticeable.

I had great adhesion in the initial print, it warps as the walls went up

I print ABS at 240 deg nozzle temp on a 90-100 deg glass bed.

Originally Posted by Tins

I don't care about the fumes, Inc, but what print temp is required?

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I heard too many people tell me ABS is just too hard to get a good print with.

Remember this print has a massive base and walls and will want to warp as it prints. In the end I had two corners lift, but as it’s the base of a hanging container, it’s not a big deal and not noticeable.

I had great adhesion in the initial print, it warps as the walls went up

Thanks, I won't try. Besides, the build volume won't fit in my printer.

3D printing is new to most of us, Tombie excepted. We should combine our knowledge, rather than argue. Yeah, I know, good luck with that...

abs doesn't like droughts.. eliminate them and it prints easily and a blue glue stick helps with the adhesion. a big cardboard box over the printer is all you need at times

the beauty of abs is you can print bits to size in parts and then glue them together with acetone

you can to a fair extent control warping with infill settings and the number of wall layers. i have printed some pots in abs that are right at the extremes of the print size on the machines with very little warping but it took a little to work out what worked in my environment

Originally Posted by incisor

abs doesn't like droughts.. eliminate them and it prints easily and a blue glue stick helps with the adhesion. a big cardboard box over the printer is all you need at times

the beauty of abs is you can print bits to size in parts and then glue them together with acetone

you can to a fair extent control warping with infill settings and the number of wall layers. i have printed some pots in abs that are right at the extremes of the print size on the machines with very little warping but it took a little to work out what worked in my environment

I have a coreflute box over my printer to keep the temperature as stable as possible. Also, turning off the cooling fan for big prints lets the print cool slower, with less warping or delamination.

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

I have a coreflute box over my printer to keep the temperature as stable as possible. Also, turning off the cooling fan for big prints lets the print cool slower, with less warping or delamination.

I was just thinking this morning that coreflute would make a good thermal cover.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

I was just thinking this morning that coreflute would make a good thermal cover.

Here is my setup. Needs a tidy up I know...

There is a clear plastic sheet front cover, hinged at the top with tape. The core flute box also stiffens up the top gantry, as the spool bracket on top is bolted through the cover on to the gantry.

There is bubble wrap under the unit to try to lessen noise being transferred through the cupboards in to the house...

I've burnt out two motherboards from the current draw for the heated bed. I now run a relay to supply separate power to the bed, switched from the motherboard.

Good light to see what's happening inside is crucial. I've mounted a LED strip light inside, switched separately to the printer.