somewhat related apparently the 3.2 duratorq ford engine if you dont change the oil/filter quick enough the pump will have drained such that it cant prime itself and you have no oil supply...
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somewhat related apparently the 3.2 duratorq ford engine if you dont change the oil/filter quick enough the pump will have drained such that it cant prime itself and you have no oil supply...
I mentioned this to a mechanic i know that works at a Ford dealership and he just laughed and said it was another myth probaly started by hi lux owners...
Certainly not saying he knows more than anyone else but he does work on them most days he tells me.
Bulletman
Quite a bit mentioned in here about crankshaft upgrades,so it appears they seem to acknowledge that there was a problem.
Deep Dive: Ford’s 1.5L and 3.0L Diesel Engines
That would most likely be the B10 design life - which means 10% will need a major rebuild by 150,000 miles. That sounds appropriate for a light duty engine.
I have seen it stated that the Ford 7.3L has a B10 design life of 200,000 miles, and the Cummins 5.9L has a B50 life of 350,000 miles (which also correlates to a B10 of 200,000).
Ford quote the B10 design life of the 6.7L Powerstroke as 500,000 miles, so looks like B10 is the standard they use for stating design life.
By chance I may have stumbled across a “smoking gun” in the mystery of the spun bearing failures.
Since doing an oil change and fitting a new Mahle filter, have noticed the time for the oil light to go out has definitely increased.
I searched on a few forums and often spun bearing failures are reported after an oil change - the primary culprit being a collapsed nipple due to fitting the filter wrong. I know in my case it is not a crushed nipple as I always fit the filter first, then the housing which is torqued up to 25Nm.
On a Russian forum it was raised that sometimes the oil nipple o-ring can be undersized with the Mahle filter and it is recommended to use a Mann filter. The difference is small but it is claimed the Mann filter retains more oil in the filter housing for longer when parked up.
This would also explain why some people do observe longer times for the oil light to go out than other people.
On a Ford forum, the same observation was made by people who claim you must use a genuine Ford filter and not an aftermarket filter. One owner of a Tdci SZ territory had a recent spun bearing failure at 200K following an oil change and had noticed the oil light took longer to go off. Their symptoms started with the extended oil light, then later it started marking noises at which point they started to investigate what was wrong, and then it failed a month after this. So plenty of warning signs.
So believing you must always take note when something is different with any Land Rover, I have ordered a Mann oil filter and a genuine Ford filter and will compare nipple o-ring sizes against the installed Mahle filter. The D3 is parked up in the meantime.
Well I did an oil change on Monday - at 200,100km - always used Repco oil filters as that is what my supplier has. Oil pressure up in 4 secs and now when fully primed oil pressure comes up immediately on start.
I understand some,not all, oil filters are already fitted with a Non Return Valve so could make a big difference on startup time.
Possibly a Flap Type?
FWIW. I subscribe to Vehicle Recall Team recalls@infrastructure.gov.au
Have only ever seen one for Land Rover & from memory that one was for an EV.