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Yes - exactly how it should be hence realised something has changed. This is one engine not to ignore when something is different to normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
Ironically it is only reading about this topic ad nauseam did it make me think - hey that can’t be right.
Will post findings once new filters arrive.
I’ve been sourcing Ryco from Repco and been happy with performance so far.
When clipping the filter into position it’s a noticeable positive fit.
Good detective work..
The whole 2.7 prising old filter out, changing cap o-ring, locating new filter nipple in first then screwing down cap with associated clunks as it locates and locks into the filter is a total bollocks arrangement.
You’ve got to get right up on the engine to positively ID the nipple hole position (or at least I do).
I’m always fingers crossed on startup after.
My great fear is a nipple oring coming loose. I always check the old one is there and have never seen it come off so that’s a plus.
Then you change a spin on can type oil filter on another engine and it’s two second job with a lick of oil on the seal.
This bloke primes his filter housing (showing for a 3.0).
Priming the oil system on TDV6 3.0 - YouTube
A few oil changes ago I bought a "Genuine Ford filter". It had Mahle stamped on the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
Just to check, I ran out and bought another one. It has Mahle OX 205/2 printed under the ford part number on the box. I compare that to a "Mahle original OX 205/2 D" I happen to have on my desk.
Spigot height :
Ford : 12.17mm
Mahle : 12.17mm
Spigot diameter :
Ford : 10.08mm
Mahle 10.12mm
All within the error of measurement. I can find no material difference between the filters other than the markings. Both are marked Mahle - Made in Austria, just the size of the printing is smaller on the Ford and its fainter.
Looks like I should get a Ryco filter as well for comparison. 🧐
That is a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
You will notice on the 3.0 they no longer have the spigot either. And once full, it looked like the line was holding oil and not rapidly draining off, so once the housing is back on (and started again) it should stay primed unless air can get into the system.
Oval Autos do a lot of engine rebuilds and would have learnt the hard way at some stage.
Makes a lot of sense to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
If you consider putting unfiltered oil into the gallerys I suppose. Plenty of mechanics refuse to pre-fill a filter due to the risk of contamination.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
From what I've been able to tell, on the 2.7 the spigot blocks the hole that drains the fluid from the filter housing back into the sump. So it's sole purpose in life is to block that hole until you loosen the housing, at which time it lets the oil drain away. How does the housing drain on the 3.0 when you do a change?Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
You will note he is being very careful to only put oil into the pre-filtered supply line back to the pump and not anything post the filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Interesting that they completely re-designed the oil filter housing and cooler on the 3.0, obviously addressing a design issue with the 2.7 set up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Really? In the '95 D1 Facelift V8 manual pre-filling was the recommended method.Quote:
Plenty of mechanics refuse to pre-fill a filter due to the risk of contamination.
If all one's dispensing containers were clean there shouldn't be a prob. I did it for years.