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Thread: Why do 2.7 cranks break?

  1. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Well I did an oil change on Monday - at 200,100km - always used Repco oil filters as that is what my supplier has. Oil pressure up in 4 secs and now when fully primed oil pressure comes up immediately on start.
    Yes - exactly how it should be hence realised something has changed. This is one engine not to ignore when something is different to normal.

    Ironically it is only reading about this topic ad nauseam did it make me think - hey that can’t be right.

    Will post findings once new filters arrive.

  2. #172
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    I’ve been sourcing Ryco from Repco and been happy with performance so far.

    When clipping the filter into position it’s a noticeable positive fit.


    Good detective work..

  3. #173
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    Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    The whole 2.7 prising old filter out, changing cap o-ring, locating new filter nipple in first then screwing down cap with associated clunks as it locates and locks into the filter is a total bollocks arrangement.

    You’ve got to get right up on the engine to positively ID the nipple hole position (or at least I do).

    I’m always fingers crossed on startup after.

    My great fear is a nipple oring coming loose. I always check the old one is there and have never seen it come off so that’s a plus.

    Then you change a spin on can type oil filter on another engine and it’s two second job with a lick of oil on the seal.

    This bloke primes his filter housing (showing for a 3.0).

    Priming the oil system on TDV6 3.0 - YouTube

  4. #174
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    On a Ford forum, the same observation was made by people who claim you must use a genuine Ford filter and not an aftermarket filter.
    A few oil changes ago I bought a "Genuine Ford filter". It had Mahle stamped on the box.
    Just to check, I ran out and bought another one. It has Mahle OX 205/2 printed under the ford part number on the box. I compare that to a "Mahle original OX 205/2 D" I happen to have on my desk.

    Spigot height :
    Ford : 12.17mm
    Mahle : 12.17mm

    Spigot diameter :
    Ford : 10.08mm
    Mahle 10.12mm

    All within the error of measurement. I can find no material difference between the filters other than the markings. Both are marked Mahle - Made in Austria, just the size of the printing is smaller on the Ford and its fainter.

  5. #175
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    Looks like I should get a Ryco filter as well for comparison. 🧐

  6. #176
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    Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    This bloke primes his filter housing (showing for a 3.0).

    Priming the oil system on TDV6 3.0 - YouTube
    That is a good idea.

    You will notice on the 3.0 they no longer have the spigot either. And once full, it looked like the line was holding oil and not rapidly draining off, so once the housing is back on (and started again) it should stay primed unless air can get into the system.

    Oval Autos do a lot of engine rebuilds and would have learnt the hard way at some stage.

  7. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    That is a good idea.

    You will notice on the 3.0 they no longer have the spigot either. And once full, it looked like the line was holding oil and not rapidly draining off, so once the housing is back on it should always stay primed unless air can get into the system.

    Oval Autos do a lot of engine rebuilds and would have learnt the hard way at some stage.
    Makes a lot of sense to me.

  8. #178
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    That is a good idea.
    If you consider putting unfiltered oil into the gallerys I suppose. Plenty of mechanics refuse to pre-fill a filter due to the risk of contamination.

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    You will notice on the 3.0 they no longer have the spigot either.
    From what I've been able to tell, on the 2.7 the spigot blocks the hole that drains the fluid from the filter housing back into the sump. So it's sole purpose in life is to block that hole until you loosen the housing, at which time it lets the oil drain away. How does the housing drain on the 3.0 when you do a change?

  9. #179
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    Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    If you consider putting unfiltered oil into the gallerys I suppose. Plenty of mechanics refuse to pre-fill a filter due to the risk of contamination.

    From what I've been able to tell, on the 2.7 the spigot blocks the hole that drains the fluid from the filter housing back into the sump. So it's sole purpose in life is to block that hole until you loosen the housing, at which time it lets the oil drain away. How does the housing drain on the 3.0 when you do a change?
    You will note he is being very careful to only put oil into the pre-filtered supply line back to the pump and not anything post the filter.

    Interesting that they completely re-designed the oil filter housing and cooler on the 3.0, obviously addressing a design issue with the 2.7 set up.

  10. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    If you consider putting unfiltered oil into the gallerys I suppose. Plenty of mechanics refuse to pre-fill a filter due to the risk of contamination.



    From what I've been able to tell, on the 2.7 the spigot blocks the hole that drains the fluid from the filter housing back into the sump. So it's sole purpose in life is to block that hole until you loosen the housing, at which time it lets the oil drain away. How does the housing drain on the 3.0 when you do a change?
    Plenty of mechanics refuse to pre-fill a filter due to the risk of contamination.
    Really? In the '95 D1 Facelift V8 manual pre-filling was the recommended method.

    If all one's dispensing containers were clean there shouldn't be a prob. I did it for years.

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