So is that a 2010 tdv6 with a broken oil pump housing or mounting bolt . That would be the first I have heard of in that year.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
Bulletman
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So is that a 2010 tdv6 with a broken oil pump housing or mounting bolt . That would be the first I have heard of in that year.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
Bulletman
all donations gladly accepted [bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
try buying a good low milage diesel terry with some goodies where everything works for under 20k in the current market, near me
i was chasing a poverty pack in the end and it still took months to find a decent one where everything worked and was in my price range
great car, would love the motor in my defender which, by the way, is easier on my spine on long journeys, but it is all about compromises because of my arthritis and the wife's aches and pains, sadly
Well if you can find the proper Ford Engine Assembly manual for the TDV6 you can add it to the AULRO shop for sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by incisor
LR Time keep showing the detail in it and it looks much better than the LR or Citroen workshop manual. Also more detailed than the SZ Territory workshop manual.
If it is on the interweb I can normally find it but so far had no luck tracking down the manual LR Time are using.
Christian said he’s going to publish all the parts and tech info once he has it all worked out so stay tuned.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
trying to find any official workshop manual for a post 2011 ford territory is like looking for hens teeth..
there are a couple out there but none are interested in sharing or selling...
fordforums.com.au has most of one online but they make some pages useless with their branding going through pics
I found the SZ manual for the TDV6 quite good - mostly the same content as the D3 manual (for the common bits) but I prefer the layout Ford uses. I see the entire car is also lifted off the motor/gearbox (looks like you have to drop the motor/gearbox out from underneath to remove).
Citroen have the best torque settings diagrams for the 2.7. And there is a good collection of assembly data produced by a group called OE for the 3.0 which apparently the bottom end set up is identical.
For an amazing amount of detail overall - the 2018 F-150 workshop manual (available via cardiagn.com) is just a mere 20,000 pages of content……. but seems to have no additional info on the Powerstroke 3.0 beyond what we mostly already have in the D4 manual (again with respect to the common bits).
But the Ford Engine Assembly Procedures and Instructions that Christian is using looks to have all the missing bits needed to assemble the TDV6 fully from a bare block.
Yes - was thinking the same. Can only imagine the timing belt had been replaced and the tensioner retaining bolt was either not replaced or was over tightened and yielded.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulletman
Wouldn’t be the first time, but surprising to see a D4 2.7TDV6 with this type of failure.
interesting snippet i just came across
i saw the tag.... must go have a bopeep and see if there is a cable tie thereQuote:
The other thing, get rid of the damn cable tie behind oil filter housing
its roped through the 3 legged breather, has absolutely no function [had an assembly tag on,which gets pulled off and this tie stays]
any way it causes horror by having the thin tip jam in oil filter bowl, causing oil seep, one dealer had gone to the extent of replacing rear main to "fix" oil leak, which was NOT FIXED cos cable tie was still stuck in
Jaguar came out with a bulletin to cut cable tie off on first sight
I made it routine to cut off at PDi, but imagine thousands of cars running around with them. I have done bit of look around-this cable tie has been on EVERY Jag, LR, Pug and Cit V6 D.
Interesting point - you can see in this picture an assembly tag on mine which would be easy to get caught in the oil filter housing cap.Quote:
Originally Posted by incisor
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...021ddaa000.jpg
When I fit I climb on top to see what I am doing - rather than doing by feel. The cables also need to be pushed aside to get the housing cover to drop down into position.
P.s. and contamination control freaks (myself included) would hate to see the amount of dirt and grime around the housing (all waiting to be knocked into the open filter).
Edit - checked mine and can’t see any cable tie at rear. Plus picture above is a bit deceiving as assembly tag sits up higher.
On another post a coupla months ago, GRAVY replaced his 3.0 litre cooler with a Nissen and said the quality was excellent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon500
Does anyone know if it is possible to buy a seal kit as such for a cooler?
All "O" rings and the middle seal?