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Thread: Why do 2.7 cranks break?

  1. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    By comparison, this is from the Citroen C6 Handbook. In this case the diesel is the 2.7.


    Interesting that for “temperate” to “hot” climates they recommend a Semi Synthetic 10W-40 oil to ACEA B3 spec.

    For us here in Australia, the HPR 5 or HPR Diesel 5 looks to be the best choice.
    which in the penrite range comes down to Enviro+ 5w-40 which is ACEA A5/B5 compatible

    hmmmm
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
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  2. #132
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    Wow, almost no consistency for essentially the same engine across different vehicles/brands.
    And only 5w30 for cold climates.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  3. #133
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    I posed the question about different oil recommendations for the same engine to Penrite 2 or 3 weeks ago which they posted in their tech forum.

    It's just a theory but the 'preferred category' might just be so they can maintain an even distribution of product that meet the same manufacturer specs

    different oil same engine | Penrite Oil Forum | Penrite Oil

  4. #134
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    Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    I see Christian and Vera have another video up.

    Complicated TDV6 crankshaft install - Land Rover Discovery - stress for Toyota drivers - YouTube

    Love to know where Christian got the Ford engine rebuild manual from. Looks to be the most detailed. Have searched online but had no luck finding. He even has detailed engineering drawings for the crank.

  5. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Maybe not,I can guarantee they know a lot more about the issue than anyone else,apart from the engine manufacturer.

    If it’s not a safety issue,and it’s going to cost huge $$ to sort,wouldn’t they stay quiet ,which is what they have done?
    Service News/Bulletins are usually only distributed to the Dealers and definitely NOT for public viewing!!
    I was a senior mngr in the State distributorship of a worldwide Japanese earthmoving manufacturer for almost 30 yrs and our S/News were most certainly not for public viewing 'cos if an owner got wind of a problem or design modification you could bet your life they'd want it fixed FOC even if well out of wnty.
    Now I am retired and the boot is on the other foot, I expect LR to meet their moral obligations to fix their design ****ups....!!
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  6. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    The check valve idea is interesting. Would make oil filter changes messy as you wouldn’t be able to partially open the oil filter housing and drain the oil back to the sump.

  7. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    Now I am retired and the boot is on the other foot, I expect LR to meet their moral obligations to fix their design ****ups....!!
    After 70yrs,do you think they are going to suddenly start?

  8. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Yep - feels like an eternity when you consider that until the oil filter and housing refills that the crank bearings are getting no oil.

    Probably a good 10-20 revolutions that the bearings are relying on a very thin film of residual oil.

    Pity that the oil filter can’t be pre-charged with oil.

    Whilst regular oil changes are good, you certainly want to avoid doing too frequent oil and filter changes.
    Crank bearings are hydrodynamic. Oil wedge is established almost instantly as its driven by rotation. As soon as the crank starts turning, oil pressure increases and supports the crank. To me the issue is ensuring clean oil and this means frequent oil changes. Otherwise, oil contaminants affect boundary lubrication and film stability, leading to metal to metal contact and therefore wear.

  9. #139
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    Starting an engine when its cold is generally when the most wear occurs.An engine that never stops or never gets a chance to cool down,should last the longest.

    Synthetic oils help to reduce this wear.

    Have a look at this.

    The Million-Mile 2007 Toyota Tundra Pickup: The Teardown

  10. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Starting an engine when its cold is generally when the most wear occurs.An engine that never stops or never gets a chance to cool down,should last the longest.

    Synthetic oils help to reduce this wear.

    Have a look at this.

    The Million-Mile 2007 Toyota Tundra Pickup: The Teardown


    Fairy muff & is reputed to be the same for Taxi engines, hot 24/7. They may be Hi-milers but not necessarily knackered.

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