Thread: Why do 2.7 cranks break?

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Getting back on topic….

After a week of no use, I estimate the time for oil light to go out is around 4 seconds. This is comparable to the time it takes to refill the oil filter after an oil change.

My oil pump was upgraded when I did the timing belt.

A check valve on the oil pump, or a way to pre-charge the oil system would be nice.

I would have thought a check valve would have bee fitted on most oil pumps these days to negate Drainback?

Originally Posted by haydent

somewhat related apparently the 3.2 duratorq ford engine if you dont change the oil/filter quick enough the pump will have drained such that it cant prime itself and you have no oil supply...

True but that family of engines has nothing in common with the Lion engines - completely different.

Originally Posted by haydent

somewhat related apparently the 3.2 duratorq ford engine if you dont change the oil/filter quick enough the pump will have drained such that it cant prime itself and you have no oil supply...

I mentioned this to a mechanic i know that works at a Ford dealership and he just laughed and said it was another myth probaly started by hi lux owners...

Certainly not saying he knows more than anyone else but he does work on them most days he tells me.

Bulletman

Quite a bit mentioned in here about crankshaft upgrades,so it appears they seem to acknowledge that there was a problem.

Deep Dive: Ford’s 1.5L and 3.0L Diesel Engines

Originally Posted by scarry

Quite a bit mentioned in here about crankshaft upgrades,so it appears they seem to acknowledge that there was a problem.

Given a lot of the comments are about building them for a more severe use and having to modify lots to suit, I thought that was pretty clear too. I also love that the design life is 150,000 miles. They don't build them to last....

Originally Posted by BradC

Given a lot of the comments are about building them for a more severe use and having to modify lots to suit, I thought that was pretty clear too. I also love that the design life is 150,000 miles. They don't build them to last....

That would most likely be the B10 design life - which means 10% will need a major rebuild by 150,000 miles. That sounds appropriate for a light duty engine.

I have seen it stated that the Ford 7.3L has a B10 design life of 200,000 miles, and the Cummins 5.9L has a B50 life of 350,000 miles (which also correlates to a B10 of 200,000).

Ford quote the B10 design life of the 6.7L Powerstroke as 500,000 miles, so looks like B10 is the standard they use for stating design life.

By chance I may have stumbled across a “smoking gun” in the mystery of the spun bearing failures.

Since doing an oil change and fitting a new Mahle filter, have noticed the time for the oil light to go out has definitely increased.

I searched on a few forums and often spun bearing failures are reported after an oil change - the primary culprit being a collapsed nipple due to fitting the filter wrong. I know in my case it is not a crushed nipple as I always fit the filter first, then the housing which is torqued up to 25Nm.

On a Russian forum it was raised that sometimes the oil nipple o-ring can be undersized with the Mahle filter and it is recommended to use a Mann filter. The difference is small but it is claimed the Mann filter retains more oil in the filter housing for longer when parked up.

This would also explain why some people do observe longer times for the oil light to go out than other people.

On a Ford forum, the same observation was made by people who claim you must use a genuine Ford filter and not an aftermarket filter. One owner of a Tdci SZ territory had a recent spun bearing failure at 200K following an oil change and had noticed the oil light took longer to go off. Their symptoms started with the extended oil light, then later it started marking noises at which point they started to investigate what was wrong, and then it failed a month after this. So plenty of warning signs.

So believing you must always take note when something is different with any Land Rover, I have ordered a Mann oil filter and a genuine Ford filter and will compare nipple o-ring sizes against the installed Mahle filter. The D3 is parked up in the meantime.

Well I did an oil change on Monday - at 200,100km - always used Repco oil filters as that is what my supplier has. Oil pressure up in 4 secs and now when fully primed oil pressure comes up immediately on start.