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Thread: Why do 2.7 cranks break?

  1. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Received the MANN oil filter today. The OD measured across the o-ring on the spigot was 11.1mm

    Removed the MAHLE filter - oil had already drained to the level of the drain hole (which is meant to be plugged by the spigot). But was happy to see it was completely flooded above the anti-drain valve.



    By the way - this is fresh new oil that is already black from less than 1 hour of running - just shows how much oil is left behind during an oil change.

    The OD of the MAHLE filter o-ring was 10.8mm.

    This difference is only a fraction of a mm but exactly what people reported on Lr-club.com.

    The MANN filter locked in nice and firm when fitting. Will have to get a Ryco filter next time to compare.

    Normal 4 secs for oil light to go off first time, and then on re-start goes out as engine is cranking. After the weekend will park the car up for a few days to see if there is any change with the oil light off time. 🤞🤞🤞🤞

    Meanwhile some more photo’s.

    First is the hole in the housing just below the rubber seal. When you open up the filter 4-5 turns this not only lifts the filter element up and out of the drain hole, but this small hole in the housing is also exposed and allows air in so it drains off.



    Next is the blocked filter bypass. As Brad suspected it does appear to be in the top of the housing cover itself. Does not look to be serviceable.



    The photo is difficult to see, but it does look like a match for a typical bypass valve, but would have to pull out to truly know.
    Just closing out a prior post. Finally received the genuine Ford Oil Filter today - took 2 weeks to travel across Melbourne. As Brad commented before, it is a MAHLE Oil filter but with some different markings on it.

    The spigot o-ring measured 11.1mm - so the same as the MANN filter but bigger than the MAHLE filter I had previously fitted. It is possible that the previous MAHLE filter was just undersized.

    As far as did this make any difference - for short duration parking (1-2 days) I would say yes, but for extended periods parked up it makes no difference. So perhaps time to consider replacing the oil housing.

    When changing the oil filter, just worthwhile checking the new filter spigot o-ring is not under size and it locks in nice and firm when fitting.

  2. #262
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    Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    Latest instalment of the rebuild and startup by LR Time is now on YouTube. He did an excellent job.

    To follow will be some videos on the oil system which will be very interesting. I’m pretty confident he will be digging in to the startup delay and non return valves.

  3. #263
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    Yeah just watched it and glad to see the hard work has paid off.
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  4. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Land Rover Discovery 3 / 4 - Epic Oil pump test and compare TDV6 - YouTube

    Very interesting oil pump video to finish off the engine rebuild from LR Time.
    Was an interesting video but light on for making any proper technical conclusions, and Christian added nothing to the theories on why Fabian’s 2.7 spun a bearing. The two tests they did proved very little in my mind - seemed to be more about showcasing Christian’s fabrication skills.

    Was expecting some comments on if they consider if the oil pump should have a check valve to stop it draining off the oil overnight when parked up, or if they consider the lower capacity oil pump contributed to Fabian’s engine failure.

    Hope they come back with a final close out on this topic.

  5. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Was an interesting video but light on for making any proper technical conclusions, and Christian added nothing to the theories on why Fabian’s 2.7 spun a bearing. The two tests they did proved very little in my mind - seemed to be more about showcasing Christian’s fabrication skills.

    Was expecting some comments on if they consider if the oil pump should have a check valve to stop it draining off the oil overnight when parked up, or if they consider the lower capacity oil pump contributed to Fabian’s engine failure.

    Hope they come back with a final close out on this topic.
    He picked up on the NRV in the oil filter / cooler housing inlet consistent with our discussion here and the flow of oil through the filter and out through the middle spear.

    So, all that can drain is the oil below the cooler housing in the front of the block above the pump which is a short tube (the oil in the cooler is horizontal and can’t drain).

    The leak down test showed it’s not a straight drop out out but a slow drain over hours but - and this was interesting to me - the pump at 1bar pushes 2.5 litres in just over 8 seconds.

    So, to fill oil back through the gallery up to the cooler and filter, which stays full, would be a microsecond.

    The delay getting pressure is on the supply side after the oil filter going through the delivery side.

    The argument for a check valve on the oil pump side seems unnecessary to me.

  6. #266
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    Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    Even your comments PD discusses more theories than LR Time did. Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    So in the interest of triggering more discussion and hopefully learning more, I will add my comments. Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    Not so sure about the micro seconds to refill - if this was true then it should not take 2-4 seconds just to get the oil pressure back up above 0.5-0.7bar (the oil light switch setting).

    If the true volume to refill the oil pump, galleries, and oil cooler/oil housing is more like 0.5l then this explains why it takes around 2 seconds to get oil pressure back if all is in good condition (good flowing pump, oil housing not seeping oil through drain plug or check valve) - but does not explain why some people see longer times than this when the car has been sitting for an extended period, or if this contributed to why Fabian’s managed to spin a bearing.

    A flow and pressure test at “cranking speed” would have been insightful and probably confirm why Fabian’s failed. They could still do this for a future video.

    Strangely it was the original 2006 pump that seemed to perform the best on the drain down test. This showed the new FAI pump was not good and was no better than the worn and potentially damaged pump from Fabian’s engine.



    This screenshot actually looks like the new FAI pump had drained down more oil than even the worn aftermarket pump. With hot oil I bet the difference is even more pronounced.

    The other note was the flow rates between the new and old pumps were not that different despite the 10% increase in size. The difference in measured flow rate was only 2% - even Vera said it was the same but Christian was convinced otherwise (and joked with video editing they will show it to be better - even then it was only just a bit better).



    The difference was 298ml/s vs 291ml/s with the back-pressure PCV set at the same point.

    A new larger impeller pump which only delivers 2% more flow compared to an old worn pump can not be right - once it is worn and has more back flow and drops a bit of operating pressure it will perform no better than the smaller impeller pump.

    At some stage he needs to get a new Ford 15mm pump and redo the flow test.

    It is good they confirmed some points but the only new bit of info for me was don’t buy an aftermarket/non-OEM oil pump (we generally assume that), and yet he still fitted the poorer quality FAI pump to Fabian’s engine on the basis that it delivered 2% higher flow rate than the worn and old smaller pump. Why do 2.7 cranks break?

    Love their work - just was a lost opportunity on where I thought (or hoped) they were taking this and his testing actually showed more issues that raise more questions.

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  7. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post

    Not so sure about the micro seconds to refill - if this was true then it should not take 2-4 seconds just to get the oil pressure back up above 0.5-0.7bar (the oil light switch setting).
    How long does it take to pump up the hydraulic lifters?
    edit: and fill all the galleries?

  8. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Not so sure about the micro seconds to refill - if this was true then it should not take 2-4 seconds just to get the oil pressure back up above 0.5-0.7bar (the oil light switch setting).
    I can only speak to my own experience but the only time my engine takes 2-4 seconds for the oil pressure light to go out is when I have done an oil/filter change. At other times it is always less than 2 secs.

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  9. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    I can only speak to my own experience but the only time my engine takes 2-4 seconds for the oil pressure light to go out is when I have done an oil/filter change. At other times it is always less than 2 secs.

    Garry
    Your experience is correct Garry and how I believe it should be.

    Some people though (at least on some forums) see more like 4 seconds after sitting idle for some time, so presumably this is over 1l of oil needed to refill everything - like when doing an oil and filter change.

    There was a Territory 2.7 failure discussed on the Ford Forum which had been experiencing extended oil light off intervals before failure and I believe even Ford was unable to work out what was happening. It too spun bearings.

    This is the mystery which many have failed to explain. In Russia some smart people have been going to extreme lengths to solve this problem. Probably why someone developed the 19mm oil pump - but this sounds over the top.

  10. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    How long does it take to pump up the hydraulic lifters?
    edit: and fill all the galleries?
    From what I have read, if all is good 1-2 seconds max. If something has changed (including after an oil and filter change) then it is more like 4+ seconds.

    Most people probably don’t even observe this.

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