Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Changing Bushes - D3 tools and tips needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    5
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Changing Bushes - D3 tools and tips needed

    Hi guys,
    I'm a fairly amateur home mechanic and have decided to replace all the bushes due to wear/tear. They're a bit overdue and I have ordered a full set of bushes online, I've seen some conflicting information online about what parts are needed from presses to torque wrenches and was hoping someone who has done the job could clear a few things up for me.

    Like:
    What tools can I definitely not do without? I already own a bottle jack, trolley jack, spanners, hammers, pliers and the basics but what job specific tools can I not do without.

    Should I do anything else while I'm down there? I've just ordered front/rear bushes for both upper and lower but should I sort out the sway bar/steering while I am going?

    Can I do this? I've ordered the parts and want to do it myself, but is it something an amateur can do unassisted without totally buggering anything up.

    Cheers guys and happy driving.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    2,701
    Total Downloaded
    0
    There’s plenty of videos on YouTube you should check out ranging from front driveway to workshop efforts.

    Typically it’s easier to replace the whole arm including bushes and ball joints if things are need a big refresh. To do this you need to undo the driveshaft nut so will need a big socket 32mm???? and breaker bar or rattle gun. That’s your first headache.

    All nuts and bolts should be replaced with new. Everything is tight and needs good tools to get the leverage needed.

    If you’re planning on pressing the bushes in/ out you can do the lowers without removing the arms but you’re going to need a really good press tool and some skill or luck to move them.

    Plenty of tricks and traps including marking the alignment points so you can reassemble it enough for it to drive straight to the wheel alignment shop.

  3. #3
    josh.huber Guest
    I've recently done them all.

    First of, definately do the sway bar rubbers whole you're there.

    I have all the tools, plus a press etc.

    Front lowers, I made a tutorial on here years ago.. You should be able to find it.
    The difference is. Back then I used to burn the bush out. Now I just drill it out.

    I heavily recommend a die grinder, the electric ones are cheap and easy I use that to cut the case in the bush. Or if your handy with a recip saw use that, with either tool. Make sure you only cut the bush not the arm. Take your time. Once the cut is in they fall out.

    The wheel alignment will be affected. To make it less of a job for your guy. Mark the eccentric bolts before removal, this applies front and rear.

    Take photos and measurements of the bush locations. The bushes are longer the bore holes in the arm. They also need to be aligned. Plenty of reference photos and marks on the arms will help get it right.

    I coat the bushes and arms in never seize to make the job easier next time. I've never replaced bolts. I have had a couple crack tested at work. They were fine.

    One of the rear bushes required me to modify my press bed as the radius was to close to the bush, I just cut the original bed and put it in the Center of the press instead of it over hanging both sides. I can take a picture to clear that up.

    You'll need to get press plates made up you don't want to push on the Center of Bush. A peice of plate with a hole in the centre etc works well. I don't use sockets they are thin around the edge and cut into the bush. But they can be used if you want.

    Yes it is a big job. I like to do match pairs. Both rear uppers together so I can reference off them. Then both lowers....

    Some places you won't get a torque wrench in.. When doing the bolts up. You want the hub at ride height. Then give em all you got.

    The top Bush on the rear is eccentric for camber, make sure it's marked. Otherwise the aligner will need to take the wheel off to make the adjustment.

    Have fun!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Yass NSW
    Posts
    5,599
    Total Downloaded
    0
    And find an aligner who knows what they are doing. I had a long discussion with one who claimed all would be good and ended up giving up and telling me the Disco was irretrievably broken. Quick trip to an aligner who knew his stuff and who had worked on them before and all was good.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  5. #5
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Tote View Post
    And find an aligner who knows what they are doing. I had a long discussion with one who claimed all would be good and ended up giving up and telling me the Disco was irretrievably broken. Quick trip to an aligner who knew his stuff and who had worked on them before and all was good.

    Regards,
    Tote
    For some reason. They always play with the back of mine and then it won't allow to front to ever be right. It's happened 2 times now. I had to do it myself in there shop once.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2021
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    5
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    I've recently done them all.

    First of, definately do the sway bar rubbers whole you're there.

    I have all the tools, plus a press etc.
    Hey mate would I be able to be a pest and get a list of the tools you use/think are necessary? Appreciate all the information. I've been watching some videos and reading guides but it'll be easier to understand when I have the parts off and in my hand.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,888
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ive done all the bushes in the front upper and lower arms in the past. A generic $120 bushing press kit off eBay will do all of the apart from the rear LCA bush. It might be suitable to push the rear LCA bush in but it's unlikely you'll get them out. Cutting them out as Josh said is probs the best way.

    My min tool list is a set of sockets to suit the bolts including the axle bolt, a 1/2 inch breaker bar, and a bush press kit. I'd add a ratchet, rattle gun and press to that list if possible.

    If your doing all the bushes definitely take the arms off. While it can be cost effective to replace the front lower arms and save yourself time and effort it is cost prohibitive to replace all the arms - it's way cheaper to buy all the bushes and a bush press kit.

    Also, the Laser tools bush kit is expensive but everything is made specifically for the bushes on the D3/4. Having used both the lasertools and a generic set, the main issue is the quality of the split plate you need to pull the bushes out. If you're cutting the bushes out it's not an issue.

    Have fun! The car will feel like new when done!

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!