Can anyone identify this tapping noise?

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

You will be looking for scoring on the back of the main bearing shell and the housing. This will tell you if it has rotated at any stage and blocked the oil flow to the big ends.

Can they rotate and return to the correct position? - possible but unlikely and now speculating. If the main had rotated I would have expected you would have found this during the strip down.

There are so many unknowns - including if you are not the original owner what it’s prior history was. Damage could have been done some time ago and only now worn enough to fail.

Could also be a manufacturing / assembly defect - such as wrong size bearings fitted to the big ends with too much clearance, again shortening life and only now failing.

I guess the real question now is - so what is next? Does this D4 get to run again?

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No visible scoring on the back of the main bearings or on the cap/block.

You can see the bearing on the cap has tightened up quite a bit. About 1.1mm. Which means it is loose in the cap. Although I would suspect that is somehow a result of the wear on the inside...

Attachment 176899Attachment 176900

I am the second owner and the first had it serviced at the Dealer with logs. But I agree, way too many unknowns.

I did have a tick, most noticeable at idle and only when warm. See Here. Had two Indi's fail to identify it. It's gone 5 years without any issues, who's to know if it's related... I guess I'll find out when it all goes back together and the tick remains or doesn't. [bigsmile1]

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

LR Time has detailed data and parts info now after their YouTube rebuild. If you emailed them I’m sure they would share the info.

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In the LR Time vid where he puts the donk back together (#4 or #5?) he puts a smear of oil under the main shells, which I could not understand.

I would have been putting a smear of super glue under all of them. [biggrin][thumbsupbig]

DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

In the LR Time vid where he puts the donk back together (#4 or #5?) he puts a smear of oil under the main shells, which I could not understand.

I would have been putting a smear of super glue under all of them. [biggrin][thumbsupbig]

DL

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Oil may help the bearing shells seat and aid in creating a seal to the main cap journal. Definitely need an oil film on the inside when fitting the crank.

Was a joke about the superglue. [bigsmile1]

DL

Just bought a Subaru Forester 07 for young bloke. Great little car. Needs head gaskets changed as leaking oil so got it for right price and will DIY with a bunch of other stuff. Turns out every non turbo EJ25 engine globally has dud HGs which need changing. Subaru never owned up to it and haven’t changed the part that fails to the MLS gasket used on the turbos that never fail.

Unless you DYOR Subaru sell you the same part which will fail again vs selling you the MLS one.

There are zillions of these engines.

Being a flat 4 any oil leak falls straight on the hot exhaust for unpleasant smells.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

In the LR Time vid where he puts the donk back together (#4 or #5?) he puts a smear of oil under the main shells, which I could not understand.

I would have been putting a smear of super glue under all of them. [biggrin][thumbsupbig]

DL

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There is a bloke on the Aussie D3/4 facebook group that pegged the shells to stop them spinning in a 3L, not sure how that works but he's rebuilt a few.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Just bought a Subaru Forester 07 for young bloke. Great little car. Needs head gaskets changed as leaking oil so got it for right price and will DIY with a bunch of other stuff. Turns out every non turbo EJ25 engine globally has dud HGs which need changing. Subaru never owned up to it and haven’t changed the part that fails to the MLS gasket used on the turbos that never fail.

Unless you DYOR Subaru sell you the same part which will fail again vs selling you the MLS one.

There are zillions of these engines.

Being a flat 4 any oil leak falls straight on the hot exhaust for unpleasant smells.

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Ha, had that exact problem with my wife's 2004 Forester for past 190,000 odd klms! Was also told its due to sub standard head gaskets. I thought it wasn't worth fixing and made her put up with the oil smell on the exhaust...... not my problem, I don't drive it! [bigrolf]

At 276,000 klms just gave it to my daughter who'll do only around 5,000 per year in it, and last July ordered a new Mitsubishi ASX "MR". Arrived two weeks ago. Not the bestest in its class but most certainly the best value for munney, and has an excellent CVT tranny where many others have ****e CVT's.

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Ha, had that exact problem with my wife's 2004 Forester for past 190,000 odd klms!

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AND AFAIK from US Youtube sites you have to remove the engine to fix them, as no room between the heads and chassis rails.
Same applies to Outback etc.
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

AND AFAIK from US Youtube sites you have to remove the engine to fix them, as no room between the heads and chassis rails.
Same applies to Outback etc.
Regards PhilipA

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Engine is in many models.

Can be done in car just enough room to wiggle out but very fiddly. Can remove engine mount bolts and jack engine for extra clearance and pull engine to either side.

So simple to remove these engines in a few hours and do a bunch of things like timing belt etc. if you DIY.

Problem is it’s a $4k job retail on these cars which are not worth much more if good condition.

They are tough units otherwise with few faults.

I have a lot of oil stains on my drive from a 2004 Subaru Impreza - just need to watch oil levels, wipe the underside often and stand upwind when stopped so you dont get over come with burnt oil fumes.

Subaru are supposed to be a quality brand and Landrover not so - yet my RRS has 25,000km more than this Subaru which has been a money pit. A/C stopped a little while back - $600 the week before last to repair - the one rubber hose in the system had perished letting all the gas out.

I would not buy another Subaru with that 2.5 engine.