Thread: Can anyone identify this tapping noise?

Don't look at LR motors, a territory motor can be as little as $2k plus fitting.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Don't look at LR motors, a territory motor can be as little as $2k plus fitting.

And then kms not so much a worry and also most Terry’s are kids buses driven around burbs and not tow tugs.

Originally Posted by ted2910

I rang the Rover mechanic in Mackay who was very helpful (until he quoted me around 20k to fix!) and sent him the slo-mo videos, he's opinion was a spun bearing. One of the first things DiscoDB told me was to pull apart the oil filter and look for metal shavings, it's funny because the first time I could see nothing but then I ran a flush through it and replaced the oil & filter not long after, pulled it out again and every vein of the oil filter had metal shavings in it! (I'll attach a pic).

So you have not actually confirmed at this stage that it has actually got spun bearings - before proceeding with anything I would be doing what is required to drop the sump and then the bearing caps and actually checking.

If you can get an as new engine for $9k - I would going that route if your engine does actually have spun bearings.

Garry

Ted2910 - do you know any more about the previous replacement engine? (Vehicle it came from, age, kms, service history?).

Not a fan of the 5W-30 oil for out of warranty motors - personally think it is too thin for hot climates and if it is the original LR spec A5/B5 oil this is selected for reducing fuel economy at the expense of providing better wear protection. But this is a personal viewpoint - need to make your own judgement on this.

Originally Posted by 101RRS

So you have not actually confirmed at this stage that it has actually got spun bearings - before proceeding with anything I would be doing what is required to drop the sump and then the bearing caps and actually checking.

If you can get an as new engine for $9k - I would going that route if your engine does actually have spun bearings.

Garry

Thanks Gary,

I did take the sump off in the early stages but couldn't see much as looked like there was a grate of some sort up in there?
So it is possible to do this with the sump removed? Is there anything else that could cause all those metal filings?
I did take both intakes off up top but it all looked fine to me.

Cheers mate

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Ted2910 - do you know any more about the previous replacement engine? (Vehicle it came from, age, kms, service history?).

Not a fan of the 5W-30 oil for out of warranty motors - personally think it is too thin for hot climates and if it is the original LR spec A5/B5 oil this is selected for reducing fuel economy at the expense of providing better wear protection. But this is a personal viewpoint - need to make your own judgement on this.

Thanks DiscoDB,

I'll keep that in mind in the future. All I know is it was replaced with an engine with 50 thousand k's on it, pretty sure it was done by LR Spares in
Gympie. I have all the receipts, was around 14 grand to do it.

Cheers

brand new ford crate motor is 11k last i heard

Originally Posted by ted2910

Thanks DiscoDB,

I'll keep that in mind in the future. All I know is it was replaced with an engine with 50 thousand k's on it, pretty sure it was done by LR Spares in
Gympie. I have all the receipts, was around 14 grand to do it.

Cheers

It is a cursed vehicle for lightning to strike twice in your case. First an oil pump casing failure, and then a spun bearing on the replacement engine.

Assuming you get to remove the engine, try and find the build date on the failed engine (may be on side of block behind alternator or will be stamped on end of the crankshaft).

Personally I would buy another RRS (perhaps get a V8), then part out your current one to recover losses.