No visible scoring on the back of the main bearings or on the cap/block.
You can see the bearing on the cap has tightened up quite a bit. About 1.1mm. Which means it is loose in the cap. Although I would suspect that is somehow a result of the wear on the inside...
IMG_8145.jpgIMG_8146.jpg
I am the second owner and the first had it serviced at the Dealer with logs. But I agree, way too many unknowns.
I did have a tick, most noticeable at idle and only when warm. See Here. Had two Indi's fail to identify it. It's gone 5 years without any issues, who's to know if it's related... I guess I'll find out when it all goes back together and the tick remains or doesn't.![]()
Was a joke about the superglue.
DL
Just bought a Subaru Forester 07 for young bloke. Great little car. Needs head gaskets changed as leaking oil so got it for right price and will DIY with a bunch of other stuff. Turns out every non turbo EJ25 engine globally has dud HGs which need changing. Subaru never owned up to it and haven’t changed the part that fails to the MLS gasket used on the turbos that never fail.
Unless you DYOR Subaru sell you the same part which will fail again vs selling you the MLS one.
There are zillions of these engines.
Being a flat 4 any oil leak falls straight on the hot exhaust for unpleasant smells.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Ha, had that exact problem with my wife's 2004 Forester for past 190,000 odd klms! Was also told its due to sub standard head gaskets. I thought it wasn't worth fixing and made her put up with the oil smell on the exhaust...... not my problem, I don't drive it!
At 276,000 klms just gave it to my daughter who'll do only around 5,000 per year in it, and last July ordered a new Mitsubishi ASX "MR". Arrived two weeks ago. Not the bestest in its class but most certainly the best value for munney, and has an excellent CVT tranny where many others have ****e CVT's.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
AND AFAIK from US Youtube sites you have to remove the engine to fix them, as no room between the heads and chassis rails.Ha, had that exact problem with my wife's 2004 Forester for past 190,000 odd klms!
Same applies to Outback etc.
Regards PhilipA
Engine is in many models.
Can be done in car just enough room to wiggle out but very fiddly. Can remove engine mount bolts and jack engine for extra clearance and pull engine to either side.
So simple to remove these engines in a few hours and do a bunch of things like timing belt etc. if you DIY.
Problem is it’s a $4k job retail on these cars which are not worth much more if good condition.
They are tough units otherwise with few faults.
I have a lot of oil stains on my drive from a 2004 Subaru Impreza - just need to watch oil levels, wipe the underside often and stand upwind when stopped so you dont get over come with burnt oil fumes.
Subaru are supposed to be a quality brand and Landrover not so - yet my RRS has 25,000km more than this Subaru which has been a money pit. A/C stopped a little while back - $600 the week before last to repair - the one rubber hose in the system had perished letting all the gas out.
I would not buy another Subaru with that 2.5 engine.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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