LR3 suspension compressor air fittings

Hi
That's the thing - I can't tell if it is opening the valve...I stripped the block and blew out a load of old dessicant dust and reassembled.
I did check the solenoid and freed it up a bit but i don't have a handy 12v source to put across the solenoid itself to check operation, and my multimeter seems to have gone missing too, so I'm a bit stumped to check the pressure sensor resistance. Grrr - could do all of this if I was at work which is the really annoying bit

Anyway - thanks for the info - I'll see if my neighbour maybe has a multimeter
Is there any way of forcing the valve to open? I was also thinking about trying to connect the compressor directly to the inlet feed on the tank

The only way I can think to force the valve open is by putting 12V on it.
The sensor is ratiometric, so it gets 0V and 5V and spits out a voltage proportional to the pressure.

Not much you can do without a multi meter and scan tool. All the other tests I can think of really rely on being able to look at the error codes as you play with it.

Edit : I've just noticed you are in Perth. Whereabouts? There are people all over the place you might be able to get help from.

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Originally Posted by BradC

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Edit : I've just noticed you are in Perth. Whereabouts? There are people all over the place you might be able to get help from.

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x2 - I have a multimeter and a GapTool if you are anywhere near me - see Top RHS

This is one of the benefits of putting your suburb, not just city/state in your top right hand corner section of posts.

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Originally Posted by allagras

Thanks all
Traced the issue to a jammed open Exhaust valve (as advised - ta) - so compressor now pumping.
I am getting air into the reservoir block now, but v slowly - compressor runs for 12 seconds then shuts off - and it isnt hot. If i switch the car off and restart, comp fires up again for 12s...going to take a long time to pump up at this rate - does this sopund right? I was expecting the pump to run longer and shut off if overheating...

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Ok I had the same issue as you - the actual valve that exhausts air to the exhaust pipe is purely mechanical - once the pressure (controlled buy the central valve block) on the pump side gets to a certain pressure it pushes against the spring in the valve opening and letting the air out. I had the same issue and thankfully tapping it cleared it - I sheared off the hex top and it is now sealed up with super glue [bigwhistle]. So you can check it is exhausting by checking if air comes out the exhaust pipe when it farts - likewise if air is constantly coming out the exhaust valve has a blockage and is open.

The problem you describe "I am getting air into the reservoir block now, but v slowly - compressor runs for 12 seconds then shuts off - and it isnt hot. If i switch the car off and restart, comp fires up again for 12s...going to take a long time to pump up at this rate" sounds like you have blocked desiccant - the piston is having trouble pushing the air through the desiccant - if you read the codes you should have C1A20 Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.

Also have you pulled apart the central valve block and cleaned every thing?

Hmm - ok - sounds good...
I pulled apart the valve block and blew out all the dust and cleaned it all and reassembled - no bother.

Nothing flowing out of exhaust at the mo - I do thing you are right with the dessicant. Its all new filters etc but i think that is OK if you are just 'topping up' the bags - think it is having a fit because of the dessicant. next step I guess - take the dessicant out and try without it.

Ive got the 12v to the compressor bypassed and running off my battery (im running the engine so i dont flatten it), and monitoring the compressor head temp with a thermocouple. Everything else is still connected to the loom.

I'll empty the dessicant can and see what happens

Cheers
G

And the saga continues...emptied the dessicant can - better pressure but still not filling the air reservoir as far as I can yell - I'm a bit surprised the little compressor could do that anyway.

Thinking about drilling out the bung in the other end of the tank and fitting a Nitto so i can use the compressor at work to fill the tank

Also, anyone knackered the head bolts - I seem to have stripped threads on 3 of 4 drillings so the bolts wont bite - if you've done this how did you fix it - I'm thinking of braxing in some ally rod then drilling and rethreading?

G

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Originally Posted by allagras

Thinking about drilling out the bung in the other end of the tank and fitting a Nitto so i can use the compressor at work to fill the tank

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Don't do that. Just another place to leak.
The EAS system also runs at higher pressure than the average compressed air system. Mine pumps up to 246psi before the compressor kicks out.

If it's not pumping up, there is a problem. A work around will just lead to more pain.

Where are you? There are people all over the Perth area with diagnostic tools that could at least read the codes and give you an idea as to what is going on.

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Originally Posted by allagras

Thinking about drilling out the bung in the other end of the tank and fitting a Nitto so i can use the compressor at work to fill the tank

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You will not get the required pressure - your standard compressor is low volume but high pressure - about three times the pressure of a standard 12v tyre compressor and well above a 240v workshop compressor.

Have you had your codes read - that will point you in the right direction instead of flopping around in the dark.

Hi
I'm in Wanneroo.
I don't have a high end OBDII reader - I can read Engine but none of the other Disco computers.
Was trying to get one of the older readers from Bearmach but no funds at the mo (Xmas!!)

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Originally Posted by allagras

Hi
I'm in Wanneroo.
I don't have a high end OBDII reader - I can read Engine but none of the other Disco computers.
Was trying to get one of the older readers from Bearmach but no funds at the mo (Xmas!!)

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Maybe pop down to Dave Dover in Wangara if no one comes forward?