Setting up D4 with the lot!

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Originally Posted by WabiSabi

I got underneath and pulled at it while my wife wound it down but it only move about 150mm and then stops. Also as soon as there is any weight it doesn’t pull up.

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Maybe just cut your losses and cut the chain in preparation of fitting a new unit?

You might get lucky and the Ford ones from one of their utes could be a replacement at about $30 - I used a ford one to create a resting place for my single axle trailer spare underneath the trailer floor.

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Originally Posted by Odysseyman

Re snorkel - do you have any data to prove that?…

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I fitted a RAI to my D4 because the filter was getting very dirty with my everyday use that included 10km of dirt. Look out the window at the dust swirling around the air intake on the side of the mudguard and you'll get an idea as to why a RAI is very worthwhile if travelling on unsealed roads.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

I fitted a RAI to my D4 because the filter was getting very dirty with my everyday use that included 10km of dirt. Look out the window at the dust swirling around the air intake on the side of the mudguard and you'll get an idea as to why a RAI is very worthwhile if travelling on unsealed roads.

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I just like the insurance of it. Having watched Brian go into a bog hole and toast his engine when it dipped too deep suddenly, seems a no brainer to me

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Originally Posted by Ghost-Who-Walks

The second spare goes under the car in the normal spot. I know it’s a PITA, but I’ve never had to use 2 spares yet!!!

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I have given up taking two spares as well,done 100's of thousands of K's all over the countryside,in D2's,and the D4,havent changed a single tyre.
I started just taking a spare tyre,not whole wheel to save weight,but now just have the one spare,air compresser,and plug kit.

But i always make sure our tyres are in very good condition at all times,and are high load rated AT's.
Those that start trips with P rated tyres,or half worn out tyres are asking for trouble on country roads.

As for a snorkle,good insurance if going places like the Cape with its water crossings.
It also definitely reduces the number of air filters that need changing,due to sucking cleaner air.

Bull bars,i hadnt hit a 'roo or any animal for about 30yrs,apart from the occasional bird.
In the last 3 yrs i have hit 3 'roos,and nearly cleaned up a pig on the last run back from Windorah.
The bar on the D4 definitely stopped a badly damaged vehicle which would have been a show stopper.

I bought the GME 330c UHF touring pack today so about to fit that off. Looks like we have Covid in the house so I have a week of fitting off the D4.

I also picked up the Rhino-Rack Aerial attachment for the roof rack so the aerial can be flipped down easily from within the cab. Just need to work out the best approach to getting the cable to it from under the drivers seat as that’s where I’ll fit the base. Not sure if I should run it from there or out through the fire wall and up.

Time for more forum trolling.

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Originally Posted by WabiSabi

I bought the GME 330c UHF touring pack today so about to fit that off. Looks like we have Covid in the house so I have a week of fitting off the D4.

I also picked up the Rhino-Rack Aerial attachment for the roof rack so the aerial can be flipped down easily from within the cab. Just need to work out the best approach to getting the cable to it from under the drivers seat as that’s where I’ll fit the base. Not sure if I should run it from there or out through the fire wall and up.

Time for more forum trolling.

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Same as always mate, firewall and up.. Across the "scuttle" panel and up

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

Same as always mate, firewall and up.. Across the "scuttle" panel and up

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Thanks Josh I managed to do just that.

Have also run the power through that grommet as my Traxide dual battery cable was going to be a bit messy to tap into. The firewall grommet is getting pretty full, still have the redarc to run through it too.

Hardest part was trying to work out how to get the cables across from the door jam and under the seat, just didn’t seem to be a clear way to get them under the carpet so I’m going to run them behind the seat and in that way.

I have Velcro self adhesive that I’ll use to secure the unit to the top of the amp tray under the drivers seat and then I think I’ll do as per Scotts posts and fit the plug for the hand piece in the middle of the cup holder, seems neat.

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Originally Posted by WabiSabi

Thanks Josh I managed to do just that.

Have also run the power through that grommet as my Traxide dual battery cable was going to be a bit messy to tap into. The firewall grommet is getting pretty full, still have the redarc to run through it too.

Hardest part was trying to work out how to get the cables across from the door jam and under the seat, just didn’t seem to be a clear way to get them under the carpet so I’m going to run them behind the seat and in that way.

I have Velcro self adhesive that I’ll use to secure the unit to the top of the amp tray under the drivers seat and then I think I’ll do as per Scotts posts and fit the plug for the hand piece in the middle of the cup holder, seems neat.

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Now you have me thinking, in second thought I think my UHF is under the passenger seat and the cable goes through the Center, then off to the gromett.

Mine is similar to Scotts, but unfinished, I just open the Center console to pick up the hand peice, I really should finish that one day

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

Now you have me thinking, in second thought I think my UHF is under the passenger seat and the cable goes through the Center, then off to the gromett.

Mine is similar to Scotts, but unfinished, I just open the Center console to pick up the hand peice, I really should finish that one day

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Turns out putting the UHF under the drivers seat was a bad idea, seat would hit when sliding forward. So after running all the wires to that point I had to switch it to the passenger seat. A bit more fiddling to run all the wires across and then some more fiddling to run the earth back to the drivers side and it’s done!

Also put the adapter plug for the mike between the drink holders same as Scott. Pretty neat over all.

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Originally Posted by jh972

ok, my 2 cents worth.

Don't get where 150 ball weight adds 220 to rear axle load though. That would mean it takes 70 off the front axle. Maths doesn't seem right but I do agree that weight will be your problem.

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It is just physics. Leverage in fact. The rear axle is the fulcrum and the ball weight is at the end of a lever.

If a weight of 100 kg is applied to a lever 1.4 metres from the axle, it applies a lot more than 100 kilos - and the weight comes off the front axle. Just get someone really heavy to stand on your tow ball and watch the effect on the front and rear axles. Then put them in the back seat, over the rear axle.

Cheers
Numb Thumbs ;)