Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst ... 34567 ... LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 85

Thread: Setting up D4 with the lot!

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,838
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Spare Winder

    Quote Originally Posted by WabiSabi View Post
    I got underneath and pulled at it while my wife wound it down but it only move about 150mm and then stops. Also as soon as there is any weight it doesn’t pull up.

    Maybe just cut your losses and cut the chain in preparation of fitting a new unit?

    You might get lucky and the Ford ones from one of their utes could be a replacement at about $30 - I used a ford one to create a resting place for my single axle trailer spare underneath the trailer floor.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    12,034
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Odysseyman View Post
    Re snorkel - do you have any data to prove that?…
    I fitted a RAI to my D4 because the filter was getting very dirty with my everyday use that included 10km of dirt. Look out the window at the dust swirling around the air intake on the side of the mudguard and you'll get an idea as to why a RAI is very worthwhile if travelling on unsealed roads.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,335
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    I fitted a RAI to my D4 because the filter was getting very dirty with my everyday use that included 10km of dirt. Look out the window at the dust swirling around the air intake on the side of the mudguard and you'll get an idea as to why a RAI is very worthwhile if travelling on unsealed roads.
    I just like the insurance of it. Having watched Brian go into a bog hole and toast his engine when it dipped too deep suddenly, seems a no brainer to me
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,some of the time.
    Posts
    13,886
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost-Who-Walks View Post
    The second spare goes under the car in the normal spot. I know it’s a PITA, but I’ve never had to use 2 spares yet!!!
    I have given up taking two spares as well,done 100's of thousands of K's all over the countryside,in D2's,and the D4,havent changed a single tyre.
    I started just taking a spare tyre,not whole wheel to save weight,but now just have the one spare,air compresser,and plug kit.

    But i always make sure our tyres are in very good condition at all times,and are high load rated AT's.
    Those that start trips with P rated tyres,or half worn out tyres are asking for trouble on country roads.

    As for a snorkle,good insurance if going places like the Cape with its water crossings.
    It also definitely reduces the number of air filters that need changing,due to sucking cleaner air.

    Bull bars,i hadnt hit a 'roo or any animal for about 30yrs,apart from the occasional bird.
    In the last 3 yrs i have hit 3 'roos,and nearly cleaned up a pig on the last run back from Windorah.
    The bar on the D4 definitely stopped a badly damaged vehicle which would have been a show stopper.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Northern Rivers
    Posts
    46
    Total Downloaded
    0

    UHF

    I bought the GME 330c UHF touring pack today so about to fit that off. Looks like we have Covid in the house so I have a week of fitting off the D4.

    I also picked up the Rhino-Rack Aerial attachment for the roof rack so the aerial can be flipped down easily from within the cab. Just need to work out the best approach to getting the cable to it from under the drivers seat as that’s where I’ll fit the base. Not sure if I should run it from there or out through the fire wall and up.

    Time for more forum trolling.

  6. #46
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by WabiSabi View Post
    I bought the GME 330c UHF touring pack today so about to fit that off. Looks like we have Covid in the house so I have a week of fitting off the D4.

    I also picked up the Rhino-Rack Aerial attachment for the roof rack so the aerial can be flipped down easily from within the cab. Just need to work out the best approach to getting the cable to it from under the drivers seat as that’s where I’ll fit the base. Not sure if I should run it from there or out through the fire wall and up.

    Time for more forum trolling.
    Same as always mate, firewall and up.. Across the "scuttle" panel and up

  7. #47
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Northern Rivers
    Posts
    46
    Total Downloaded
    0

    UHF Install

    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    Same as always mate, firewall and up.. Across the "scuttle" panel and up
    Thanks Josh I managed to do just that.

    Have also run the power through that grommet as my Traxide dual battery cable was going to be a bit messy to tap into. The firewall grommet is getting pretty full, still have the redarc to run through it too.

    Hardest part was trying to work out how to get the cables across from the door jam and under the seat, just didn’t seem to be a clear way to get them under the carpet so I’m going to run them behind the seat and in that way.

    I have Velcro self adhesive that I’ll use to secure the unit to the top of the amp tray under the drivers seat and then I think I’ll do as per Scotts posts and fit the plug for the hand piece in the middle of the cup holder, seems neat.

  8. #48
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by WabiSabi View Post
    Thanks Josh I managed to do just that.

    Have also run the power through that grommet as my Traxide dual battery cable was going to be a bit messy to tap into. The firewall grommet is getting pretty full, still have the redarc to run through it too.

    Hardest part was trying to work out how to get the cables across from the door jam and under the seat, just didn’t seem to be a clear way to get them under the carpet so I’m going to run them behind the seat and in that way.

    I have Velcro self adhesive that I’ll use to secure the unit to the top of the amp tray under the drivers seat and then I think I’ll do as per Scotts posts and fit the plug for the hand piece in the middle of the cup holder, seems neat.
    Now you have me thinking, in second thought I think my UHF is under the passenger seat and the cable goes through the Center, then off to the gromett.

    Mine is similar to Scotts, but unfinished, I just open the Center console to pick up the hand peice, I really should finish that one day

  9. #49
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Northern Rivers
    Posts
    46
    Total Downloaded
    0

    UHF Install

    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    Now you have me thinking, in second thought I think my UHF is under the passenger seat and the cable goes through the Center, then off to the gromett.

    Mine is similar to Scotts, but unfinished, I just open the Center console to pick up the hand peice, I really should finish that one day
    Turns out putting the UHF under the drivers seat was a bad idea, seat would hit when sliding forward. So after running all the wires to that point I had to switch it to the passenger seat. A bit more fiddling to run all the wires across and then some more fiddling to run the earth back to the drivers side and it’s done!

    Also put the adapter plug for the mike between the drink holders same as Scott. Pretty neat over all.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    261
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jh972 View Post
    ok, my 2 cents worth.

    Don't get where 150 ball weight adds 220 to rear axle load though. That would mean it takes 70 off the front axle. Maths doesn't seem right but I do agree that weight will be your problem.
    It is just physics. Leverage in fact. The rear axle is the fulcrum and the ball weight is at the end of a lever.

    If a weight of 100 kg is applied to a lever 1.4 metres from the axle, it applies a lot more than 100 kilos - and the weight comes off the front axle. Just get someone really heavy to stand on your tow ball and watch the effect on the front and rear axles. Then put them in the back seat, over the rear axle.

    Cheers
    Numb Thumbs
    Fuji White 2019 SE Sd6

Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst ... 34567 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!