Thread: Oil Pressure light on instrument cluster

Originally Posted by 101RRS

What is this infamous diesel oil pump failure - know of the tensioner housing failure causing valves to crash into pistons but I dont believe the oil pump itself has a history of failure.

Also what was this oil pump recall of 2011/12 - never heard of it. Are you getting confused with the injection pump recall. If there was an oil pump recall my car has not had it and according to topix all my recalls are up to date.

As others have said, sounds like a possible spun bearing.

Im just going off the information i was told by a so called LR specialist. I am focussing on replacing the engine, with a fresh on, swapping out any parts with know issues, with better quality ones.

And yes, if you review my posts latest reply, i believe it was old pump failure, the oil filter is peppered with “gold dust” and upon internal inspection with borescope, it appeared CYL 1 , 2 and signs bearings chewed.

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Gee the bad luck stories continue.

Sorry to hear this.

Sounds like you have joined the infamous spun bearing club. But losing oil pressure before the failure is different so does point to either lack of oil or an oil pump failure as you suspect.

Not aware of any oil pump recall, but the must do recommendation is to replace the oil pump with timing belts and make sure you have the latest upgraded pump which is reinforced and has a larger impeller.

Can I ask what oil spec you were running since you owned it?

Plus any issues with starting the car in recent times?

Hi I use Castrol Magnetic Diesel DX5W-40, And have used Penrite HPR Diesel 10W-40, Manufacturer specs is 10W-40 from memory, so i can’t see this being an issue, however im open to info to prevent this in future.

Originally Posted by Azza_LR3

Hi I use Castrol Magnetic Diesel DX5W-40, And have used Penrite HPR Diesel 10W-40, Manufacturer specs is 10W-40 from memory, so i can’t see this being an issue, however im open to info to prevent this in future.

Actual spec is 5W-30 but there is an argument for 5W-40 in warmer climates - especially if oil temps can see 110-120degC. This gets discussed a lot in other threads with no definitive answer.

10W-40 would be too thick when cold - and this could increase the risk of rotating a main bearing during cold starts. So I presume you meant Penrite 5W-40.

Originally Posted by Azza_LR3

I am focussing on replacing the engine, with a fresh on, swapping out any parts with know issues, with better quality ones.

I am not sure where you are going to get these - eg crankshaft as the "popular" opinion is aftermarket parts are suspect and have major failures soon after rebuild - hence the knowledgeable LR mechanics will not rebuild but replace - not prepared to take the warranty risk.

I would be looking for a Territory engine or if you can find one a new long motor.

Garry

Originally Posted by Azza_LR3

Manufacturer specs is 10W-40 from memory, so i can’t see this being an issue, however im open to info to prevent this in future.

No that is not correct - 5W/30 oil to specification WSS-M2C-913B meeting ACEA B1/B3 is the correct oil - could be part of your issue.

Originally Posted by 101RRS

I am not sure where you are going to get these - eg crankshaft as the "popular" opinion is aftermarket parts are suspect and have major failures soon after rebuild - hence the knowledgeable LR mechanics will not rebuild but replace - not prepared to take the warranty risk.

I would be looking for a Territory engine or if you can find one a new long motor.

Garry

Hi Garry,
Ive been building engines for my various cars some 20yrs now. I have a few connections.
* I can already find a 3.0L “stroker kit” from Ford SVO Motorsport in USA, that suits the V6 Lion engine. US call it a power stroke. Kit contains rods and stroker crank, then i get my local machinist to machine block and sleeves to suit. However this can easily become expensive. $4k machining, $6100K AUD (incl shipping) for stroker kit.. And a late F150 Oil pump $ 180 AUD, suits.
* The Territory option $14K brand new from FoMOCO Aus. S/H low kms (185-220kms)$2100-2500 wreckers (4month guarantee)(Not thats worth sh*t from a wrecker).

* Then i have the 32hrs (Remove body off frame) to swap them over. $4500est.

Question is, patch it up and try my luck, rebuild it properly, or swap to a ‘good’ S/h engine. That i will decide over next few days.

Jefferson Ford claim to have the 2.7 in stock for $11,400. Even do click and collect.

This stroker kit sounds very interesting. Would make the 2.7L a 2.8L and in theory get you a new 3.0L crank and latest bearings with tabs. Would need to notch the mains and I guess it comes with custom Con-rods or pistons to suit. Love to know more about how this all fits together.

Are you sure this kit was for the TDV6 and not the 2.7 V6 Petrol that Ford still produce for the US market? Amazed that SVO are interested in the TDV6.

(Ford call the new 3.0TDV6 the 3.0 Powerstroke Diesel).

Originally Posted by Azza_LR3

Hi Garry,
Ive been building engines for my various cars some 20yrs now. I have a few connections.
* I can already find a 3.0L “stroker kit” from Ford SVO Motorsport in USA, that suits the V6 Lion engine. US call it a power stroke. Kit contains rods and stroker crank, then i get my local machinist to machine block and sleeves to suit. However this can easily become expensive. $4k machining, $6100K AUD (incl shipping) for stroker kit.. And a late F150 Oil pump $ 180 AUD, suits.
* The Territory option $14K brand new from FoMOCO Aus. S/H low kms (185-220kms)$2100-2500 wreckers (4month guarantee)(Not thats worth sh*t from a wrecker).

* Then i have the 32hrs (Remove body off frame) to swap them over. $4500est.

Question is, patch it up and try my luck, rebuild it properly, or swap to a ‘good’ S/h engine. That i will decide over next few days.

Or try a RRS V8 swap as done elsewhere on this forum. You always get what you pay for.