Oil Pressure light on instrument cluster

Cheers Azza - yes know all about the 3.0 Powerstroke.

I still remain amazed that anyone in the US would even develop (or sell) a stroker kit for the 2.7TDV6 given this engine was never available in the US.

Makes me wonder if the stroker kit was developed in the UK, but it would be the worlds best kept secret if true.

Will wait with interest to see what you end up doing. A TDV8 conversion would be my pick over attempting an upgrade to the 3.0 (we need someone in Victoria to go first and get the Engineering approvals). [emoji106]

We need a guinea pig [bigrolf] -

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

We need a guinea pig [bigrolf] -

Forged Steel Crankshafts For Land Rover Discovery 4 Tdv6 2.7l 3.0l Crankshaft - Buy Crankshaft For Land Rover,Steel Crankshafts,For Land Rover Crankshaft Product on Alibaba.com

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Oval Autos gave a batch of Chinese Cranks a go. If I recall correctly one even snapped during the test run (or very shortly thereafter).

There is a Russian mob who will give a 3 year warranty on the cranks they use, but good luck making a claim.

NWS sell a billet crankshaft for the 3.0. Many will argue that forged is superior, but given the weakness of the original crankshaft a billet crankshaft may actually be better. Jury is out on this one as well and exactly where NWS source their cranks from is not clear either.

Makes you wonder where the kits for the 2.7 which come with a crankshaft and getting them from.

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

NWS sell a billet crankshaft for the 3.0. Many will argue that forged is superior, but given the weakness of the original crankshaft a billet crankshaft may actually be better.

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If the billet that the crank is machined from is also forged, its just more machining to get to the same end result. However, a complex shape such as a crank shaft has many corners, edges, transitions and profile changes. In my view, a ​forged crank (then finish machined) will be stronger as the metal grain structure is deformed rather than cut. This is also why high strength bolts with rolled threads are stronger than bolts of the same material but with cut threads. The risk is that if any inclusion in the steel are exposed during forging, this can cause stress raisers and start crack propagation.

I believe that we are seeing snapped cranks as a result of main bearing caps rotating in their seat, causing oil starvation, thus causing the main bearing cap to weld itself to the crank, and the inertia of the rotating engine at this time causes the crank to snap between cylinders 1-2 and 3-4. This is opposed to the crank failing as the root cause and then causing the bearings to fail.

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

I believe that we are seeing snapped cranks as a result of main bearing caps rotating in their seat, causing oil starvation, thus causing the main bearing cap to weld itself to the crank, and the inertia of the rotating engine at this time causes the crank to snap between cylinders 1-2 and 3-4. This is opposed to the crank failing as the root cause and then causing the bearings to fail.

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As plausible an explanation as any. This is getting off topic, so we may need to start (yet) another thread, but assuming this is an accurate assessment of the crankshaft failures, what could be done to the engine to prevent this from happening?
I don't mean servicing, that is a given. But in an engine that has happily motored on for a decade, if you were to remove it and strip it for rebuild, are there any changes that could be made to the bearing caps and/or crankshaft that would correct the issue?

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Originally Posted by DieselLSE

As plausible an explanation as any. This is getting off topic, so we may need to start (yet) another thread, but assuming this is an accurate assessment of the crankshaft failures, what could be done to the engine to prevent this from happening?
I don't mean servicing, that is a given. But in an engine that has happily motored on for a decade, if you were to remove it and strip it for rebuild, are there any changes that could be made to the bearing caps and/or crankshaft that would correct the issue?

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You would need to determine the reason for the shells rotating, find that and then rectify the issue.
And totally agree with Eric's surmise .

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

We need a guinea pig [bigrolf] -

Forged Steel Crankshafts For Land Rover Discovery 4 Tdv6 2.7l 3.0l Crankshaft - Buy Crankshaft For Land Rover,Steel Crankshafts,For Land Rover Crankshaft Product on Alibaba.com

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Guinea Pig here.... I went with a new Territory engine, couldn’t be stiffed with the headache, after the rebuild and parts list came up similar. And yes on further investigation, the stroker crank that i found, was for a ford Exploda.. not a TDI. Lucky i checked up.

Regardless, the Disco is back on the road, new engine, new injectors (most failed a flow/injector test), new water pump, radiator core replaced. And back in action. Still running it in, but vehicle did my high country long weekend in its stride, and im happy with how its running at present. I did notice on the scanguage whilst on the fwy (105km/hr) the water temp has hovering 90-92deg C. and Trans 70-77 deg C. @ 28deg day.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

You would need to determine the reason for the shells rotating, find that and then rectify the issue.
And totally agree with Eric's surmise .

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The shells on the earlier models don’t have the small tangs that locate them, the later ones do.. Glad they finally worked it out...

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Originally Posted by Azza_LR3

The shells on the earlier models don’t have the small tangs that locate them, the later ones do.. Glad they finally worked it out...

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Plenty of industrial engines don't either, putting one together today that doesn't.

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Originally Posted by Azza_LR3

The shells on the earlier models don’t have the small tangs that locate them, the later ones do.. Glad they finally worked it out...

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This has been done to death. Tangs we’re to aid in human assembled engines only. A tang will not stop a bearing rotating once a bearing snags. A bearing cannot move unless it has interference as anyone who’s assembled an engine knows, the shape and tension in a bearing keeps it firmly in place. If a bearing rotates it has seized to the crank/rod and is pulled around. You need to fix the reason the bearing touched the shell, not think a tang will solve the issue. Missing tangs is not why these fail. Poor design is.