Reply With QuoteHello,
Something I should have asked earlier is whether D3 and D4 and equiv RR are the same standard rear diff?
If they are, it just makes searches and kits and replacements easier to source.
Cheers
Ralph
Wizard
SubscriberBy eliminating the easier to diagnose causes. A hoist would be handy, but not essential. Raise the car to off-road height, put axles stands or similar under the jacking points just in case. Leave the handbrake off and switch off the engine. The car will pop the gearbox into Park, but that's OK for this exercise. Crawl under the car and look for movement in the front and rear prop shafts. Both rotational and lateral. As the axles are prevented from movement by the wheels being in contact with the ground, and the gearbox is locked in Park, any felt clunking (and you will feel, see and hear it) will most likely be from prop shaft CV joints, splines or rear centre bearing or a combination of the lot. You might also pick up any diff slackness, too, but if you suspect that then I'd suggest getting an Indy to look at it. Unless you're feeling up to it, then you could jack up one rear wheel and see how that feels, then do the same at the front. That will also give you clues as to the state of the transfer case, but this is now getting a bit hard to explain.Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Your prop shafts are probably due for replacement anyway, so I'd start there. Then adjust up the diffs if necessary. If all this fails, then start looking for more exotic causes.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
OldBushie
Hello,
Something I should have asked earlier is whether D3 and D4 and equiv RR are the same standard rear diff?
If they are, it just makes searches and kits and replacements easier to source.
Cheers
Ralph
LordRover
SubscriberDifferent engines have different ratios so like for like should be ok.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
OldBushie
Righto!
Prob should have realised that as well!
My thinking is, as my trojan has 320k on the clock, I'm considering a lower km swap as an option, hence the question.
Even tho a rebuild/exchange might only be 2-3k, I'm wondering if a the rest of the car will last that long and therefore little return on investment.
So, as I've a TDV6, I should look for a TDV6 or SDV6 diff. Makes sense.
Cheers
Ralph
ChatterBox
SubscriberHmmm, I'd be checking the transmissions and transfer cases used as this determines the final drive ratios to the differential.
6 or 8 speed boxes would make the biggest difference. Benefit is they're all ZF so the mounts and output shaft splines should be like for like.
LordRover
SupporterRalph - if you google Land Rover Discovery Diff ratios AULRO you will find lots on this including the various diff ratios.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
LordRover
Subscriberdiff ratios not trans.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Master
The D3 diff is different to the D4/RSS diff. While they are different, they are interchangeable. When looking for a rear lockers for my RRS I found that ARB made one for the D3 but not the D4. The D3 however bolted straight in to the RRS.
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