EPB and plastic box question

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Have you watched the Britpart video? It’s a good one?

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Thanks, I just watched the Britparts video. The disassembly and assembly of the EPB is brilliant, very clear and much better than what I found. The other one of fault finding doesn't give much info and no fault indication at all.

I probably have to take the module out and change the gears so will follow Britparts instructions.

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Originally Posted by TopEndThom

I remember it being difficult to find info on it when I had my issues, but piecing it together via YouTube I figured the ‘rattle gun’ was programmed into the module and would initiate when it sensed it was torqued up. All the videos I found where people had this issue had the same noise with the same frequency and pattern.
Constant screeching maybe when the threaded rod is loose but a gear has been stripped?

I’m sure there’s someone on here who knows exactly.

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You're probably right that the rattling would prevent any damage to the gears. So a constant screeching could be stripped teeth or the tip of the small gear has sheared off (the one with the spring and washer). Someone is manufacturing this gear with a brass tip as it seems to be a common problem but I couldn't get hold of one. I settled with a replacement plastic set of gears.
Two things doing it in-situ: going through all the trouble to get the Torx screws out, isn't it easier to take the whole module out? Also if there is only limited space I'm not sure I can apply a proper silicone seal for the lid and would be nervous going through each river crossing.
As I said, I'll give it a go and if unsuccessful I still can take the module out. And the mysterious box.

Hi Floz
I too am one of thones who had the dreaded squeel, locked on park brake (used the cable to release) and then did the whole release of the cable and reset the EPB in-situ. If I recall, I actually worked on the EPB from the back after dropping the spare out of the way and rolling EPB module over as it was incredibly painful trying to work around the driveshaft and other bits and pieces forward of the EPB. Which means that 'mystery' plastic box (which mine did not have) would have to be removed first.
In regard to resealing the box, with some care and time I was able to reseal it with black sikaflex, so it should be thoeroughly waterprrof (hopefully so as it's just been through numerous water crossings on a Fraser Island trip). I too replaced the brake shoes, cleaned out the drums and followed Bodsy's brake bible to the letter. No issues since then, no replacement plastic gears. The only thing I did with the EPB was to 'unjam' it and wind the mechanism back together, which turned out to be pretty straightforward.
Regards
Goldey

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Originally Posted by Floz

You're probably right that the rattling would prevent any damage to the gears. So a constant screeching could be stripped teeth or the tip of the small gear has sheared off (the one with the spring and washer). Someone is manufacturing this gear with a brass tip as it seems to be a common problem but I couldn't get hold of one. I settled with a replacement plastic set of gears.
Two things doing it in-situ: going through all the trouble to get the Torx screws out, isn't it easier to take the whole module out? Also if there is only limited space I'm not sure I can apply a proper silicone seal for the lid and would be nervous going through each river crossing.
As I said, I'll give it a go and if unsuccessful I still can take the module out. And the mysterious box.

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Back in the day when cars had powered telescopic aerials there was a similar spring loaded engagement mechanism that allowed the drive gear to slip rather than shred teeth making the rattle gun noise. It’s a common technique.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Floz

You're probably right that the rattling would prevent any damage to the gears. So a constant screeching could be stripped teeth or the tip of the small gear has sheared off (the one with the spring and washer). Someone is manufacturing this gear with a brass tip as it seems to be a common problem but I couldn't get hold of one. I settled with a replacement plastic set of gears.
Two things doing it in-situ: going through all the trouble to get the Torx screws out, isn't it easier to take the whole module out? Also if there is only limited space I'm not sure I can apply a proper silicone seal for the lid and would be nervous going through each river crossing.
As I said, I'll give it a go and if unsuccessful I still can take the module out. And the mysterious box.

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The torx screws are the easy part as they’re not very tight, although for a couple of them you’ll be working semi blind.
The hardest part is getting the cover off. Once you break a little bit of the sealant the rest comes quite easy.

In terms of sealing it back up I just liberally applied the sealant (black sikaflex) to the lid before refitting. Pretty straight forward.

In terms of what’s easier overall - I’m not sure, but from what I read and saw, removing the module completely is very time consuming and difficult.

Unfortunately if you do need to swap the gears you’ll have to completely remove it. But at least you’ll know for sure it’s necessary if you get the cover off in-situation first.

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Originally Posted by TopEndThom

Once you break a little bit of the sealant the rest comes quite easy.

In terms of sealing it back up I just liberally applied the sealant (black sikaflex) to the lid before refitting. Pretty straight forward............................

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The problem will come down the track when it has to be done again.

Cracking the seal that's been done with black sika won't be easy............... wouldn't ordinary silicon be better if everything is cleaned prior with prepsol or similar?

just asking, DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

The problem will come down the track when it has to be done again.

Cracking the seal that's been done with black sika won't be easy............... wouldn't ordinary silicon be better if everything is cleaned prior with prepsol or similar?

just asking, DL

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You’re right. I just checked my sealants box and it was actually sikaseal roof and gutter. Should be easier to break than sikaflex?

Thanks for all hints and tips.
Now that I started this thread and was about to get into it unfortunately I had a bushwalking accident a week ago and fractured a vertebrae [bigsad]. I have to put the works on hold for a few weeks but if anyone has more to add I'll be an interested reader.
Once mobile again and able to bang around under the car I will post my findings.

Rest up! A broken brake is far less important than a broken back.

So the EPB is fixed, my broken back unfortunately needs more time. But I had a friend helping out and we followed Thom's description and accessed the module from the front (him doing the work, me handing the tools and holding the beers).
We even managed to break the same plastic part to make sure we don't leave out any step [biggrin]

Torx screws were easy, breaking the seal of the cover a bastard. Then onto the bar with the stubby flathead, again a bit of a struggle. Once wound in I couldn't believe the EPB did its job as nothing happened. I used silicone gasket to seal up the module again. Can't be any worse than the original sealant!

Total time for the fix about 1 1/2 hours.

Now onto the break adjustment and bedding in the new break shoes.

Thanks to everyone for their input and especially TopEndThom for the detailed step by step description. It saved a lot of time and probably headaches.