Have you checked your join of the LIN wire?
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Have you checked your join of the LIN wire?
Yes have done a continuity check and I can measure a voltage when the ignition is on.
Things have gone to a mystery phase. When I apply 12V connected via a globe to the B+ terminal and ground I have continuity, reversed polarity there is none.
Using a multimeter set on diode check connected between B+ and ground there are milli volt values displayed regardless of the polarity of the connections. Diode checking of individual diodes shows inconsistently in milli volt values.
A new alternator appears to be on the cards as I cant identify the Part No for the diode mounting plate.
Gravy, there was a thread on here not long ago where someone identified parts and suppliers if that helps.
What did you Polish the slip rings with? Wet and dry leaves some residue which insulates between the brush and ring. We were told at TAFE only use plain sand paper then clean thoroughly. Do the same to the carbon brush.
I just went and found it. It was your thread, good luck mate,
Did you take into account that half of the diodes are for positive and the others negative?
To test individual diodes the wires have to be removed but you can't test the avalanche voltage without having a variable voltage supply to cause them to reverse conduct when the trigger voltage is reached. The trigger voltage is around 30V when new but slowly lowers.
I had not taken this fully into account, however I knew that avalanche diodes had to be triggered similar to a zener. I have assumed that measurements for all pairs of diodes would be similar.
Maybe the auto elec can fully test the alternator, I will find out tomorrow.
The Denso Part No for the rectifier is 0215807310, however I cant find an Aus supplier.
Zener = avalanche.
The Part No on the label attached to my alternator is 10 42 10 2421, which directly cross references to a Denso DAN 1105 which is rated 150A.
Denso DAN 1112 cross references to Part No 10 42 10 6420 which is rated 180A.
I am of the opinion DAN 1112 may have been fitted to the V8 engine.
Reading through the posts on the web on this subject is a minefield. I have based my statements on the label attached to the alternator fitted to my vehicle, I believe it is the original fitment.
I have purchased a replacement alternator from a Launceston Tasmania Auto Electrician for $485 which is a Denso knockoff. Time will be the deciding factor to prove its quality and performance.
What rating is marked on your original alternator? The MY10 3.0 D4 had 180A which appeared to continue to include MY14 but thereafter a different specification, possibly reducing to the 150A version.
The 220A 4.4TDV8 alternator can be fitted if a little material is removed from the mounting bracket to accommodate the slightly larger alternator and the 4.4's fixed pulley is swapped for the 3.0's free-wheeling pulley.