Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Unfortunately no rating on the label only the Part No. As previously mentioned, subject is a can of worms and seems there are a lot of variations between years of build and engine fitted.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Unfortunately no rating on the label only the Part No. As previously mentioned, subject is a can of worms and seems there are a lot of variations between years of build and engine fitted.
I’ve never seen my load get near the 150a alternator I’ve fitted, but next time I’ll probably go back to the 180amp just because.
I've just replaced the 220A alternator on my 4.4TDV8 L322 and installed a dedicated alternator cable at the same time. After finding that the terminals on a 200A CB on the cable got extremely hot after idling for a couple of minutes, I replaced the CB with a 200A megafuse, only to find its terminals also got extremely hot after idling for a couple of minutes, so the megafuse was bypassed. After a few more minutes idling the IIDTool was connected which then showed 162A again while idling, dropping to around 130A after a few more minutes. My guess is that the alternator may have been pushing close to 200A into the 90Ah AGM starting battery and 100Ah AGM aux battery at the beginning, which hadn't been recharged since the last short drive without a working alternator.
Hi Reading this thread have exactly the same problem. In removing the alternatorfrom my 2010 l319 lr4 I have servered the si gle wire I to the plug connector on back of alternator. I see you had same issue. My problem is I can't see the broken wire now somewhere in the void where alternator was any ideas ?
The wire will have recoiled back into the void as it would have been under tension when it severed. I cannot remember how this wire was routed, get your phone into the void on video and you should reveal where its hiding. Repairing the termination into the alternator plug I suggest you solder on a "fly Lead" to make reconnection easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo