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Thread: Gearbox rebuild

  1. #21
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    My surge was mild and constant - I think it was the torque converter engaging and diengaging. It was most noticeable in 5th gear with cruise control on. Thgere's some videos on this forum of the rev counter surging within about a 200-300rev band. There was also a bit of shudder at times that I originally thought was coarse road noise, but then realised it was the transmission.

    They flushed it and put some additive in it and told me to try that. Sometimes it fixes everything, but most times not. In my case it was better for a few weeks, then got worse, so a full rebuild was warranted.

    Drives well now, and fuel economy is noticably better.

    your issue doesn''t sound like mine.....

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by River View Post
    $6952 drive in drive out transmission and torque converter
    Very impressed with service and the car wash 😀
    Was that a new TC? Valve body overhauled and new solenoids too?

    4 years ago I was getting the TC shudder, short on cash at the time so opted to just do a triple flush with LF6. I had the steel pan so also did the filter, replaced the bridge seals and oil pump seals and well as electrical connector seal.

    2 tubes of Dr tranny in and I am still driving it, the trans is not great as it will slip if I give it a bootfull 3rd & 4th I think.
    For the time being I will keep on driving it till it gets bad enough to warrant spending $7 - 8k.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterOZ View Post
    Was that a new TC? Valve body overhauled and new solenoids too?

    4 years ago I was getting the TC shudder, short on cash at the time so opted to just do a triple flush with LF6. I had the steel pan so also did the filter, replaced the bridge seals and oil pump seals and well as electrical connector seal.

    2 tubes of Dr tranny in and I am still driving it, the trans is not great as it will slip if I give it a bootfull 3rd & 4th I think.
    For the time being I will keep on driving it till it gets bad enough to warrant spending $7 - 8k.
    Sounds like mine but i don't have any shudder at all but the shifts from 1-2 and sometimes 3-4 and some downshiftling in the lower gears is what i get. Not convinced it needs the full rebuild but will do the solenoids etc and then TC then full box if required.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Sounds like mine but i don't have any shudder at all but the shifts from 1-2 and sometimes 3-4 and some downshiftling in the lower gears is what i get. Not convinced it needs the full rebuild but will do the solenoids etc and then TC then full box if required.
    I did a zip kit and solenoids and got zero improvement in the clunks etc. Trouble is, I didn’t vacuum test the ports it said to, so it’s likely that I haven’t fixed all the issues. Also, some of the clink is possibly driveline.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    I did a zip kit and solenoids and got zero improvement in the clunks etc. Trouble is, I didn’t vacuum test the ports it said to, so it’s likely that I haven’t fixed all the issues. Also, some of the clink is possibly driveline.
    Clunks isn't my issue more shifting into the right gear, smooth as butter once i get past 3 or 4th but occasionally the 1-2 and 2-1 is dodgy.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Sounds like mine but i don't have any shudder at all but the shifts from 1-2 and sometimes 3-4 and some downshiftling in the lower gears is what i get. Not convinced it needs the full rebuild but will do the solenoids etc and then TC then full box if required.
    Exacto what I have but 1-2 and no shudder. Replaced the rubber mechatronic to case seals which are supposed to cause this but it didn’t eliminate and fresh oil.

    It’s a minor annoyance and I’ll keep going and maybe next oil change remove mechatronics and get a shop to do the zip kit since there’s a bit more than just changing out the solenoids.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by irondoc View Post
    So I just had my gearbox rebuilt on a 2011 2.7 D4 with the ZF 6 speed after some torque converter and surging issues.

    The local small Gold Coast transmission place said they are rebuilding the transmissions on about 1 Discovery a week, and there were 2 in the shop when I stopped in....

    Mine had 200,000km on the clock and has had 2 oil changes before that. He also recommended I change the transmission oli every 20,000km which seems quite frequent.

    Cheers
    Lucas
    Thats not entirely correct.. The discovery's with the 6spd ZF2H box, have an issue with the servo inside box, that and a poor design convertor.
    Get TCE in Melbourne to rebuild the convertor “Properly” much Like Peter does for the Falcon guys, and it won’t fail.
    Get your local transmission shop to rebuild the ZF box, and change the servo over. All up, should cost around $7ooo.

    Regards the Oil changes, rubbish. ZF themselves say 100ks is sufficient pending you use correct fluid.

    cheers
    Azza

  8. #28
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    Someone pass me the popcorn please......

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Sounds like mine but i don't have any shudder at all but the shifts from 1-2 and sometimes 3-4 and some downshifting in the lower gears is what i get. Not convinced it needs the full rebuild but will do the solenoids etc and then TC then full box if required.
    I don't get the shudder after I did the service, what I do get on a rare occasion is when I pullup say at lights the transmission will not disengage and keeps trying to drive, perhaps the TC or a clutch in the transmission itself.

    Put into neutral for a sec then back to drive and it will behave again. Only does it on rare occasions.

    Main issue now is the slipping which will be worn clutch packs. It shifts up and down quite smoothly.
    As long as I don't try and give it bootful its fine.
    Not for beach work!! That would find the problems real quick, overheat very fast I would think.

    Did you get your popcorm and make yourself comfy mate?

  10. #30
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    May 2014
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    80K between oil changes is probably optimal - depending on how much punishment the g/box gets. If it regularly runs hot (>100degC) then you do need to change much more frequently as it is temperature that kills the oil (and the gearbox).

    There is a trade off though - if using the ZF LG6 oil you can easily spend a lot more in oil changes than get any real benefit in increased life. For example - if you changed every 50K then you would want the gearbox to last at least 50% longer for it to be cost effective - otherwise you are literally pouring money into the oil recycling bin.

    Using the much cheaper Penrite ATF BMV oil is a potential game changer and would warrant more frequent oil changes to alleviate any concerns that the Penrite oil is not as good as the ZF LG6 oil.

    Gearbox rebuildGearbox rebuild

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