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Thread: Gearbox rebuild

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    80K between oil changes is probably optimal - depending on how much punishment the g/box gets. If it regularly runs hot (>100degC) then you do need to change much more frequently as it is temperature that kills the oil (and the gearbox).

    There is a trade off though - if using the ZF LG6 oil you can easily spend a lot more in oil changes than get any real benefit in increased life. For example - if you changed every 50K then you would want the gearbox to last at least 50% longer for it to be cost effective - otherwise you are literally pouring money into the oil recycling bin.

    Using the much cheaper Penrite ATF BMV oil is a potential game changer and would warrant more frequent oil changes to alleviate any concerns that the Penrite oil is not as good as the ZF LG6 oil.

    Gearbox rebuildGearbox rebuild
    Coming up to 50,000km on BMV in my ZF6spd. No slip, shudder or any other issues or error codes at all in all kinds of driving. I cracked the filler plug last service and checked the colour that came our, clear like light honey. In my view, BMV is a proven alternative to the oem LG fluid.

    A good mechanic I know uses only BMV in all the ZF boxes he services on 3,5 and 7 series BMW's with no issues either.

  2. #32
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    I used Penrite in my old X5 and it used 0.5l/100km more diesel. I asked Penrite why this was happening and they said something along the lines like the product meets the requirements they are supplied with, suggesting there might be more requirements. I switched back to genuine LG6 and the fuel consumption went back to normal.

    I know plenty of people who use the penrite in their ford falcons with no problems. So it will do, it just might not be the perfect specification.

    In the scheme of things, the genuine LG6 isnt that expensive. On sale its a steal.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azza_LR3 View Post
    Regards the Oil changes, rubbish. ZF themselves say 100ks is sufficient pending you use correct fluid.

    cheers
    Azza
    Another person's view is never rubbish, it might be right, it might be wrong, it may be misguided - but is never rubbish.
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Another person's view is never rubbish, it might be right, it might be wrong, it may be misguided - but is never rubbish.
    Agreed.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterOZ View Post
    Was that a new TC? Valve body overhauled and new solenoids too?

    4 years ago I was getting the TC shudder, short on cash at the time so opted to just do a triple flush with LF6. I had the steel pan so also did the filter, replaced the bridge seals and oil pump seals and well as electrical connector seal.

    2 tubes of Dr tranny in and I am still driving it, the trans is not great as it will slip if I give it a bootfull 3rd & 4th I think.
    For the time being I will keep on driving it till it gets bad enough to warrant spending $7 - 8k.

    Full remanufactured transmission and TC, they remove computer from your unit reinstall and dyno test

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azza_LR3 View Post
    Thats not entirely correct.. The discovery's with the 6spd ZF2H box, have an issue with the servo inside box, that and a poor design convertor.
    Get TCE in Melbourne to rebuild the convertor “Properly” much Like Peter does for the Falcon guys, and it won’t fail.
    Get your local transmission shop to rebuild the ZF box, and change the servo over. All up, should cost around $7ooo.

    Regards the Oil changes, rubbish. ZF themselves say 100ks is sufficient pending you use correct fluid.

    cheers
    Azza
    Have you had your converter rebuilt by TCE ?
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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azza_LR3 View Post
    Thats not entirely correct.. The discovery's with the 6spd ZF2H box, have an issue with the servo inside box, that and a poor design convertor.
    Hi mate, can you clarify please re "servo inside box"? Is this on the ZF6HP26/28/32 transmission? Not sure what you are referring to exactly.

  8. #38
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    Most likely referring to the solenoid valves which control fluid flow to engage parts like the lockup clutch. They are known to clog-up after time due to lack of oil changes.

    They are easy enough to replace or if you are game enough do a full rebuild of the valve body which clogs-up too.

    Plenty of youtubes on this and parts are easy to get from ebay.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arch View Post
    Most likely referring to the solenoid valves which control fluid flow to engage parts like the lockup clutch. They are known to clog-up after time due to lack of oil changes.

    They are easy enough to replace or if you are game enough do a full rebuild of the valve body which clogs-up too.

    Plenty of youtubes on this and parts are easy to get from ebay.
    Thanks for that, yes I've done the full valve body rebuild, including gen2 zip kit and full set of new solenoids, steel pan, and filter etc. Was just wondering if I'd missed a "servo". Note that solenoids are not servo motors, just simple on-off devices really.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Thanks for that, yes I've done the full valve body rebuild, including gen2 zip kit and full set of new solenoids, steel pan, and filter etc. Was just wondering if I'd missed a "servo". Note that solenoids are not servo motors, just simple on-off devices really.
    While you’re kind of right, not really. The solenoids will be pulse width modulated to effectively turn them on and off at a frequency that keeps a variable flow factor, and while it’s kind of on and off, it’s more of a flow control thing as the open and closes are so fast it’s more of flow regulation. But they’re definitely no servos, correct! Servos being a motor driven device. Solenoids being a current driven magnetic coil and piston.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
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