No probably made by the same major auto oil producer thats why you can't tell the difference except in price.Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
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No probably made by the same major auto oil producer thats why you can't tell the difference except in price.Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
If you’re trying to run a Land Rover on a pension I suggest moving to a Toyota Corolla. The different is about $50 over 100,000 Km.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
That's not the point, fluid tech has moved on since 2004 so why pay more just for a plain white label with no info on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
In answering the OP I’d definitely say use the ‘Special’ fluid to change and establish a baseline what’s in there as potentially an unknown substance has been used prior. It would be easy to accidentally whack some 75-90 in as even the locking rear LR diff needs a ‘special’ oil for its clutch pack and could be incorrectly filled in error. Even a regular LSD diff needs an alternate oil to a non LSD. It will still work with the wrong oil but LSD will be compromised.
Of course the condition of the oil and substances in the oil may hold the answer also.
Old marine gearboxes used mono weight oil and later ones multi grade engine oil. There’s so many variables you can never tell looking at the outside of a diff or gearbox and do you trust every mechanic not to make an honest mistake in a rush to finish a job?
An update, have had diagnostic yet. As i tried one more thing.
I dropped the transfer case down enough to remove the TC motor took it apart cleaned the contacts and brushes up (brushes look quite worn), refitted and redid the manual recalibration another two times.first time switching on ignition for recalibration the yellow cog fault light came on, along with an F in the drive select position but disappeared after first recalibration. At a guess i would say it was because of the TC motor being turned during the clean up.
It drives fine on lock to lock now, so i quite happy.
All the diffs and transfer are going to get a oil change very soon,once i can the correct oils.
Thanks for the advise.
Glad you got this sorted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward72
I had exactly the problem you described (at the tip of Cape York)! It started after crossing Nolan's Brook (deep water), so assume small ingress/water contact somewhere on the transfer case is what caused it.
Unfortunately, I didn't own a GAP tool at the time. Car was barged/flat-bedded back to Brisbane, then the dealers replaced the TC under extended warranty. I was happy, as all done at no cost to me! [bigsmile]
As other's have mentioned, it is absolutely likely to be the calibration of the TC. If you have a GAP tool, plug it in and run the recal. process.
I got a good result, but a replacement TC was completely unnecessary in this situation.
Rob
Just to add the knowledge base and to say a thanks to the forum generally and DiscoJeffster specifically, who mentions it first.
After having some knocking/shuddering when turning I found this thread and following the direction did a fluid change and calibration of the TC. Specific issue resolved and (it maybe the placebo effect) the car seems to be driving significantly better overall.
I used the 'special' LR fluid as I noted years ago the Justin Cooper said to only use the genuine fluid. I was also in a bit of a rush so the LR dealer in Cannington was easy.