Here’s another YouTube video that explains it well.
How to anti-seize wheel nuts without over-cranking the hi-tensile studs | Auto Expert John Cadogan - YouTube
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Here’s another YouTube video that explains it well.
How to anti-seize wheel nuts without over-cranking the hi-tensile studs | Auto Expert John Cadogan - YouTube
I enjoyed his bozo comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by ericdavisoz
Hi all
I'll give you a differing slant. In the big scheme of things the tool provided by the manufacturer for tightening, undoing wheel nuts is "sorta" the correct length for manually torquing the wheel nuts, and undoing! With that tool there is little risk of over-torquing grease or no grease.
I have too many experiences with tyre fitting orgs where the wheel nuts have been torqued to the supposed manfr's specified. However I had not been able to undo them. In one instance I had to take the Deffie back and get them undone! Not a good look out in the boonies. The tyre place would not tighten them with the tool provided. (liability?) I had to do it.
Back with my Classic RR the tool had a flip handle providing a short length for tightening and long one for removing.
I have personally never lost a wheel nut and they have all come off when needed out there.
Makes your decisions and takes your chances.
Cheers
Ridk F
I don't think I even own a torque wrench - or if I do, I would struggle to find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
The OEM Land Rover wheel brace is worthless crap - particularly if you happen to have had your wheel nuts tightened by some dickhead in a tyre service who didn't correctly count the "dugga dugga's" on his rattle gun. I have replaced the wheel nuts on my D4 with solid steel ones from Tuffant, and carry a good quality six point impact socket in the glove box, and a decent length breaker bar under the seat. I don't have any problems loosening or tightening wheel nuts when required - and I use a wire brush to clean the threads, with NO lubricant of any kind on them.
Without reading everyones post or whatever video is also posted...
*Yes I use a small amount of anti sieze, the spray type on the thread, centre hub, flat part where the alloy wheel touches.
*I torque wheel lugs with a torque wrench.
Why?
*Go deep dive into threads, thread holding, pitch, material, wet, dry torque settings, tensile strengths and then come back and say its a bad thing I do.
*a light coat on the face prevents the alloy wheel and the steel disc trying to become one.
*When I say a small amount I mean a small very light spray.
*Torque up the wheel lugs simply to ensure they are even and not over tight, I have corrected plenty of brake pedal pulsing simply by undoing the wheel lugs and torqueing them up.
*I have seen plenty of broken wheel studs on mine sites due to everyone nipping up wheel lugs on morning pre-starts.
I've always used thread grease on the wheels of every vehicle I've owned for many years and never bothered with a torque wrench until the D4 and that's just for that stupid hand/emergency brake adjusting. Never yet had a nut come undone as many of the so called engineers on various forums reckon will happen if you use lubricant.
I'm a bit like BMKal as I know the torque wrench is in the shed but not sure where and I certainly wouldn't waste room carrying it around with me.
AlanH.
I use CRC (mainly to get the dirt out of the wheel nut after I drop them on the ground) and a rattle gun then tighten them up with an extension bar, What on earth is a tension wrench?[bigwhistle][biggrin]
It's a "torque wrench" and if you have to ask ....Quote:
Originally Posted by trout1105
..........
..... Because manufacturers only publish torque figures to be randomly annoying and not because they're important or relevant.
I do own a "Torque" wrench But I have Never bothered to use it on wheel nuts all I do is crank them up with an extension bar, drive 50/100km and give them another cranking.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
This has Never let me down and I haven't busted a wheel stud yet doing this.
Why do you need an extension bar - a standard wheel brace is fine. With an extension bar you run the risk of over torquing.