While I was doing similar work, I had my indy replace the main and con rod bearings. We found the crank thrust bearings were worn to double tolerance. That has given me confidence (or hope) that I’ll get many more years from it.
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While I was doing similar work, I had my indy replace the main and con rod bearings. We found the crank thrust bearings were worn to double tolerance. That has given me confidence (or hope) that I’ll get many more years from it.
Exactly... I aim to keep 'routine' costs as low as I can by careful sourcing, and doing the 'interim' oil and filter services myself, but then every once in a while you hit a big service. Spreading the load across that sort of mileage, and looking at the cost of an equivalent replacement vehicle, you're ahead financially - and your point about the risks of a 'new' second-hand vehicle is spot on. It hurts, but the alternative is not necessarily better if the vehicle is meeting your needs...Quote:
I was thinking about changing the vehicle out, but when push came to shove, I would have had to lay out somewhere around $50 to $60k mark to get into a later model equivalent vehicle and remember that it is not a new vehicle we are talking about. That 'deal' could either be fantastic or it could be a nightmare ....used vehicles can be a bit of pot luck! :unsure:
My D4 has done 322,000km over 11 years of ownership since brand spanking new. Now I am hoping it will last another 11 years, by which time my need for a vehicle of this size will no doubt have reduced. My outlay for all the work being performed is around the $13k mark and will give me the confidence to continue to use the vehicle well into the future. Mind you the auto trans might need to be rebuilt at some stage but at this time its doing the job just fine.
So by my reckoning I am way better of rebirthing what, is to my way of thinking, a terrific vehicle.
I’m surprised that no one yet makes an aftermarket silicone hose coolant pipe set for D3 or D4. Would be a useful update.
Would it? Cooling system hoses are pretty much the one element I don't recall anyone ever having an issue with. I had a pin-hole in my EGR intake hose, but that was caused by a previous mechanic using a ill-placed worm-drive clamp on there.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Plenty of other parts of the cooling system fail, but I don't recall anyone mentioning losing a hose.
Agree but it would nice to have an economic high quality replacement for these things as how long is too long? Same for radiator you rarely hear of a failure. A Mishimoto all aluminium one would be nice if they did one.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
My service agent tells me that they have not replaced a D4 hose.......some D3 hoses are in question though. That said, the hoses on my vehicle seem to be in pretty good nick. None the less I thought that 11 years and 300,000 plus kms is pretty good so I opted for a change out even though they are expensive and it was not suggested to me, in my discussions with the service agent.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
I would rather not be the crash test dummy for hose longevity.
Not disputing that, and frankly if I were in the same situation I'd do the same thing. I'll probably do mine in the next couple of years just because they're approaching 15 and on other cars I generally do them at 7. I was more talking about the viability or reason for creating an aftermarket silicone hose set.Quote:
Originally Posted by LGM
Frankly if there was an aftermarket set, I'd probably still opt for the originals at twice the cost purely because they're a known quality. With the Volvos, I always buy genuine Volvo hoses at 3 times the price of the aftermarkets, purely because they last at least 3 times as long and it's several orders of magnitude cheaper than a cooked motor.
I replaced mine with a nissens one from AF and the price delivered was not expensive, after 14 yrs of the original in the tropics I thought a replacement was a good option. You can clean out the I/C doing the change over which I found was full of oil. It's a cheap but effective change if you can order from the uk and change yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Cheers Bulletman
All aluminium construction is more susceptible to vibration in offroad use though and often leads to a point of failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
Silicone hoses used in coolant applications use a thin layer internally to prevent reaction with coolant - another at risk failure point to be aware of.
Sometimes the old school is the best choice.
I'm not sold on aluminium radiators. A few years ago I built a very fast Jaguar Mk2 3.8 litre which was as quick/quicker than an E-type up to 100 mph, and fitted an aluminium radiator (triple row).Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
I believe it was Chinese, beautifully made, however the top outlet was slightly incorrect shape and I had to modify the top radiator hose.
However I noted that after sitting for say, longer than an hour or more, the top tank was still very hot, which led me to realise it didn't dissipate the heat nearly as quickly (efficiently??) as the original 2 row copper core type.
The engine also ran around 5 deg hotter with the ally rad at low speeds (ie, low air flow thru rad) which I confirmed with a master temp gauge.
So I went back to the original unit which was of course several Kg heavier but no other disadvantage.