Is the car on the original battery?
D4 (2015) started throwing some electrical dash faults (transmission, brakes etc), then wouldn't start, failing to recognise either smart key...
Mechanic came out and jump started it, reckoned it might be a failing battery. I got it home and wondered about either battery or alternator.
Local independent garage, who are not LR specific, but pretty good, have had a 3 hour investigate, and they reckon it's the body control module stuffed. What is this exactly, and does anyone know a fair price/location to get one? They're saying it needs fitting and coding to the keys. I just want to check prices etc before I go ahead - can't find much of relevance on the interweb...
Is the car on the original battery?
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Traxide D3-DU Dual Battery Kit, Apple CarPlay, Power and Heated Seat retrofit, Rhino Rack Batwing Awning (Part time install), BFG KO2 for play
nope-second, which was my first 'assumed problem' ....you ask because?
Only to confirm your suspicion of a bad battery causing the issues - so often the way in these cars.
If it was able to be jump started, not sure why the garage would think the module has failed?
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Traxide D3-DU Dual Battery Kit, Apple CarPlay, Power and Heated Seat retrofit, Rhino Rack Batwing Awning (Part time install), BFG KO2 for play
I hear you, but I'm somewhat in their hands... They've spent 3 hours investigating, they have a local reputation to protect, and they made a point of phoning to check whether I was content to authorise further investigation when they decided it wasn't battery or alternator. They get a regular trade in local Discoveries, but make no claim to be specific experts. I guess my options are:
1. Pay for work to date, bring home and wait for service at MR automotive in Redcliffe in 20 days (previously booked...)
2. Let them continue. Ironically, they've spoken to MR to try and source the part - but MR haven't yet looked at it themselves...
I may just wait for MR, thinking out loud. They can 'start again' with the input from the local garage, and verify whether it really is the BCM - which I'm being quoted for at around $1200 fitted, but without the work to then code/program it. Don't have to have the car to hand, but it stalls some other work I was going to do.
(Edit, and to answer your specific point about jump starting, I presume they have gone this route because I specifically asked them to check the battery and alternator, and they've found no faults there?).
I cant remember the last time I saw a faulty BCM, yet the main battery yes every 3 years or so.
I dont know that I would be jumping right into a BCM change, good grief so many other smaller simpler items could be at fault.
Sounds like you already have a indy Land Rover repairer that its booked with, stick to that.
Regards
Daz
Thanks guys - I think you reinforce my decision...
I had my battery replaced yesterday after a couple of weeks of failing to start, low battery warning and numerous codes showing up on scan tool. Voltage from alternator when running good, battery voltage at 12.7 but tending to fluctuate. The battery was 3 years old.
My thoughts would be battery first.
Good luck
LuckyLes
It's a fascinating journey. The garage were 'irritated' that I didn't want them to get the vehicle transported to a specialist workshop, in addition to paying them over a grand for the BCM, and warned of doom and gloom when I told them to put it back together and that I'd sort it out in my own time. It came back to me without even having the clock reset after the battery disconnect. They've lost all future business from me. Very underwhelmed, and disappointed in what comes across as a money grubbing operation...
I've been charging it, it did over 100km today with about 5 stop/starts faultlessly. I'm inclined to think it's the battery, and will get the specialist independent (MR Automotive) to confirm or deny.
I understand that some businesses survive on a slash and burn model, but it ****es me off.
It all sounds a bit sus to me. I have no idea what a Body Control Module is for, but my working life was spent designing high tech microprocessor controlled devices, and there is practically nothing that can be intermittent in electronics other than connectors. If a semi-conductor device fails, it stays failed. Likewise most electronic components. Other than a flat battery, I can see no reason why a faulty BCM would allow a jump start but not start from the cranking battery.
Have you a multimeter to check the voltage of the battery with the engine running, preferably continually while driving?
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