Thread: Traxide Issue? or DC/DC charger Issue or D4 problem

Hi Tim,
Can this upgrade also be used in the D3 set up to?
As i have had to previously change out out my circuit breaker in my Traxide system.
Cheers
Peter

Hi Peter and yes you can do the same upgrade in a D3.

D3s are not as big a problem because they have a smaller alternator ( 140 amps ) and a much longer cable run between the two batteries, but there have been a few instances where the same problem occurs.

NOTE other than the fuse upgrade, while a number of new features have been added to the latest versions of all my isolators, there is no need to upgrade or modify the older versions of the SC80 or DT90 isolators.

They will easily and safely handle a continuous load of 90 amps for many hours and short surges in excess of 150 amps.

I was completely confused on this for a moment, before realising there is a second 50A breaker on the SC80 units.

Can I assume this rare problem cannot exist at all for the USI160 models?

Hi Veebs, with probably 99.5% of USI-160 and the new UST-175 isolators being fitted where both or all three batteries are under the bonnet, as long as you use the correct size cabling, and 3B&S ( 25mm2 ) is the recommended MINIMUM size, you will not need fuses or circuit breakers.

To use fuses or circuit breakers will simply increase the resistance in the circuit while winching.

If you are fitting the second battery somewhere other than the engine bay, you MUST fit fuses or circuit breakers ( circuit breakers being the preferred safety device ).

These must be fitted somewhere in the engine bay, before the cable leaves the engine bay to protect the cranking battery.

And the second battery must have the safety device fitted as close as practical to the second battery's positive ( + ) terminal, so that if a dead short does occur, you dramatically reduce the chances of a fire occurring.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Veebs, with probably 99.5% of USI-160 and the new UST-175 isolators being fitted where both or all three batteries are under the bonnet, as long as you use the correct size cabling, and 3B&S ( 25mm2 ) is the recommended MINIMUM size, you will not need fuses or circuit breakers.

To use fuses or circuit breakers will simply increase the resistance in the circuit while winching.

If you are fitting the second battery somewhere other than the engine bay, you MUST fit fuses or circuit breakers ( circuit breakers being the preferred safety device ).

These must be fitted somewhere in the engine bay, before the cable leaves the engine bay to protect the cranking battery.

And the second battery must have the safety device fitted as close as practical to the second battery's positive ( + ) terminal, so that if a dead short does occur, you dramatically reduce the chances of a fire occurring.

Hi Tim (and anyone else)

Thought it easier to revive old thread rather than start a new one.

After the issues in May and June, with what turned out to be the SC80's Circuit Breaker, I replaced with 80 amp Mega Fuse as you suggested. I had to grind out the opening on one of the traxide terminals that was on the CB. One side fits on the Mega Fuse holder perfectly, but the cable at the other end is a bit small. A portable grinding stone for a chainsaw sharpener worked fine.

Anyway to the purpose of this post revival that you and others might offer suggestions. I am All the time getting the low voltage warning on the D4 even after a day of not driving or even after I drive 20-30km. Obviously the SC80 unit is doing it's job as it's not flattening the main cranking battery, which is also only 1 year old. Yesterday the 12v plugs in the rear of the D4 were all as dead as a doornail. After starting up the D4, in about 30 seconds got power back there again.

There has been absolutely NO load on the Optima D34 Yellow top at all, but it seems like it has a problem and is continuing to draw power from the Crank battery, but the D34 will not hold charge. Maybe the circuit Breaker issue didn't help, but I strongly suspect the D34 is Kaput (and it is also only a year old as well).

So what do I get? I'm not getting an Optima. I have read the loooong 18 page thread about batteries, but wondered if you (or others) have any recent feedback on other batteries that fit in where the Optima D34 does, with minimal modification.

SSB HVT-50D seems to be the go, but does the HVT-70D fit. I also saw a comment about a FullRiver DC85..

In your opinion, what is the best to replace the D34.

Thanks

Trevor

Hi Trevor and unfortunately you are not Robinson Crusoe with your Optima.

Over the last 4 or 5 years, so many people have had problems with them that alternatives were looked for.

The SSB HVT batteries are proving to be very good and a hell of a lot cheaper than the Optima’s.

The SSB HVT-50D ( a 60Ah battery ) is a direct drop-in replacement for the D34 Optima. ( no modifications needed ).

The SSB HVT-70LD ( an 85Ah Battery ) can be fitted but you have to remove the battery tray and bend one end flat, to allow the bigger battery to fit.

You will also need replace the lead running from your fuse holder to the Auxiliary battery’s positive ( + ) with a longer cable.

This new cable needs to be 35cm long.

Resurrecting an old thread I brought an Optima D34 in April its just been returned and accepted as a warranty claim. Have just ordered a HHT battery.