Thread: D3 suspension fault nightmare, need help

Originally Posted by Iherbst87

G'day Daz. Yeah still trying to source one locally to test before i buy a new one, but can you please let me know a price for a TCCM if you have one? Cheers

Heya Discorevy, long time no speak haha. Yeah still playing with the thing and still druving me mad with a BING evrry time its driven.

On a side note, i contacted the previous shop who used to look after this thing, and some of the last notes about suspension was a fault code for the right rear strut not filling or something like that, he said that the right rear air strut may have a leak under driving conditions and bumps pressure causing it to drop and maybe ecu thinks the sensor is faulty. Odd thing is it doesn't lower over night or anything that i have found. Have you guys heard of a fault like that before with an air spring? I suppose i could swap the air springs over left to right and see if the fault moves to the other wheel. Im still not rulling the TCCM out just yet either

Have a look at the valve block if you haven't already, could be blocking / sticking with old dessicant

Originally Posted by discorevy

Have a look at the valve block if you haven't already, could be blocking / sticking with old dessicant

I did swap the valve blocks front to rear with no change, i also noticed the valve block which was on the rear (now in the front) was a new aftermarket one. I also inspected the lines on the rear air bags.

So heres another test i did last night. I put the vehicle into offroad height, did all the measurements and locked the car, about 2 hours later i forgot to pull the 5A fuse to stop auto levelling. This morning i found 3 corners had lowered a bit, and the rhr was still the same ( measurements are at home and forgot to put them in my phone ). Any ideas? Maybe that rhr aur strut is leaking and the rest are lowering to suit the rhr?
EDIT: The rhr measurement was about 18mm lower than the lhr, and about 10ish mm lower then the fronts from memory.

The fuse to remove to prevent lowering is the 20A suspension fuse in the engine bay fuse box. The 5A in the engine bay box is only a sense for the compressor relay contacts closed and the 5A in the passenger compartment fuse panel is the ignition sense.

Originally Posted by Iherbst87

I did swap the valve blocks front to rear with no change, i also noticed the valve block which was on the rear (now in the front) was a new aftermarket one. I also inspected the lines on the rear air bags.

Just a warning, but the valve blocks are not the same. The book says :

"The front and rear axle valve blocks are similar in their
design and construction and controls air supply and
distribution to the front or rear pair of air spring damper
modules respectively.

The difference between the two valve blocks is the
connections from the valve block to the left and right
hand air spring damper modules and the valve sizes.
It is important that the correct valve block is fitted to
the correct axle, otherwise leveling will be impaired due
to the different valve sizing.

Fitting valve blocks incorrectly would not actually stop
the air suspension from functioning. But will result in
slow raise and lower times and uneven raising and
lowering between the front and rear axles. "

So if you are chasing a fault, swapping blocks might not be the way to go.

Thank you BradC. I checked the part numbers online before i did it and found them to be the same part number. Odd thing is it didn't change anything when i did swap them over, still had the same fault. I did open them both up to inspect and they had the same sized valves and seals. Hmmm, still something to think about too.

Originally Posted by BradC

Just a warning, but the valve blocks are not the same. The book says :

"The front and rear axle valve blocks are similar in their
design and construction and controls air supply and
distribution to the front or rear pair of air spring damper
modules respectively.

The difference between the two valve blocks is the
connections from the valve block to the left and right
hand air spring damper modules and the valve sizes.
It is important that the correct valve block is fitted to
the correct axle, otherwise leveling will be impaired due
to the different valve sizing.

Fitting valve blocks incorrectly would not actually stop
the air suspension from functioning. But will result in
slow raise and lower times and uneven raising and
lowering between the front and rear axles. "

So if you are chasing a fault, swapping blocks might not be the way to go.

Accessing and removing the rear block is a major achievement very very fiddly and need to be super careful not to cross thread on the plastic side

Originally Posted by Iherbst87

Thank you BradC. I checked the part numbers online before i did it and found them to be the same part number. Odd thing is it didn't change anything when i did swap them over, still had the same fault. I did open them both up to inspect and they had the same sized valves and seals. Hmmm, still something to think about too.

Are you sure? My copy of Microcat shows :
Front Valve block : RVH000095
Center valve block : RVH000046
Rear valve block : RVH000055