Thread: D3 suspension fault nightmare, need help

Yip will double check the part numbers.

Yeah thats right, thats whats giving me grief, so was aiming towards electrical somewhere. Still not sure what avenue i need to head in

Hi I had similar issues on my D3. After replacing compressor and all sorts of other things it ended up being a bad starter motor that was throwing faults through the whole system.
Since replacing I have had no suspension faults.

Originally Posted by Iherbst87

Hey all. I'm having faults with my suspension again. Right rear height sensor fault, along with invalid data sent from ride level control module fault in the TCCM. The right rear sensor has been replaced twice and i did a calibration, i replaced with wiring from the sensor to the air suspension ecu, pulled the tccm out and all the pics are nice and clean, i did find some small corrosion inside the transfer case control module, cleaned it up and seemed to have been ok, but comes on more and more now with the same faults. All readings to and from the sensor and the eas is fine with no breaks in readings. Can anyone shed some light on this by any chance?Attachment 179289

Thats a different one.

So heres a new thing i found this morning. So, if i put the vehicle into offroad height for about 3seconds before i leave the house or a parking lot, then lower it to normal ride height, it doesn't fault, like as in at all. The car can be stationary for a few hours or even 1 minute. So what now? Im really confused.
(I still have not swapped the valve blocks back)

UPDATE TIME!!

So at this point i want to thank everyone for their input on this issue. It seems as though it has been resolved.

Apologies for the long winded post, so grab a drink and read up if you wish...

So from start to finish here it goes:
I bought the car from Perth and was informed the compressor was getting tired as it was about 9 years old, whicis fair enough, on the way home (400km) the suspension light came on, pulled over and cycled the ignition ignition, light gone for a few days. Then the light came on heading to do a 4wd recovery in Albany (yes we get calls from RAC for recoveries), it did it about 6 times in a 600m track and on the beach, anywho got to work and scanned the codes, found Right Rear height sensor code, contacted a landrover indie and guided me to diagnose the sensor, found the sensor was floppy, so replaced the sensor, struggled to do a calibration but got there. Drove around and fault came straight back on. Checked wiring and all connections, all ok. Got a GAP tool and scanned code, had RHR height sensor component failure, ordered another one under warranty and replaced. At this point i had also ordered and replaced the dessicant in the AMK compressor, and wow what a difference in build up pressure it made, but Surprisingly the light came back on. After a bit of to and fro convo's with my indie, we suggested replace the wiring to the ecu, did that and wham, no light for a day or so. Light came back on, then decided to swap the front and rear valve blocks (the rear valve block looked only a few months old too and an aftermarket one at that), SO at this point i should have checked the lines and connections. Carrying on and starting to find wiring diagrams, YouTube videos etc and not getting very far, i swapped the compressor for a known good one from my uncles D4, i checked the TCCM, slight corrosion internally, but cleaned and flowed the solder, did the same with the Air suspension ECU and still faulted. I even swapped the TCCM with my bosses RR sport, and made no difference. The light could always come on at total random. I contacted the previous indie in oerth who looked after the vehicle suggested a leak on the RHR air strut, so did a leak check over night and no leak, pulled the line off the air bag and everything looked good. Did a bit more looking at CAN wiring and connections just for shiggles and all ok. I decided to swap my compressor back at this point too. I got an Autel AP200 and always watched the values on the rear struts and no changes, spikes or drops when driving, but always rhr sensor fault at random. So as discussed on here recently i found out the front and rear valves are different, so decided to finally switch them back (on paternity leave now so have a bit of time up my sleave to work on it during the day), pulled the front valve block out, pulled the rear one out and bam, found the hose coming from the rear valve block to the rhr air strut was not seated on the brass split olive properly (I'll put the photo up) and at this point i had a sigh of relief, and nerves were shot as i wasn't holding my breath. Anyways i put olive back to its original position, and put it all back together. Started the car as normal, cleared the codes and drove it in a vacant block out the back, tried offroad suspension, flying in normal mode and even rock crawling in low range, no fault whatsoever. I drove around town this morning and no fault. SUCCESS AT LAST. So driving today i was always expecting to see fault come up, but finding it odd that its fine 🙂

Thanks again for reading, if you got this far anyways.

Photo of said culprit

20220624_141608.jpg

Well done, good result.

Originally Posted by Iherbst87

found the hose coming from the rear valve block to the rhr air strut was not seated on the brass split olive properly (I'll put the photo up)

I want to register my concern at this point. The brass split olive has one purpose, which is to stop the tube blowing out of the connection. There are 2 seals in those connectors. One is an elastomer seal inside the brass body and seals the tube to the body while allowing it to move a little bit, and the other is the external o-ring that seals the connector to whatever it's being screwed into.

This isn't a hydraulic coupling where the olive provides the seal.

So whilst I appreciate the fact the fault has "gone away", I'm yet to be convinced that is/was the cause. I hope time will prove me wrong.

Regardless, I'll bet you know an awful lot more about the vehicle than you did at the start of this "adventure".

Originally Posted by BradC

I want to register my concern at this point. The brass split olive has one purpose, which is to stop the tube blowing out of the connection. There are 2 seals in those connectors. One is an elastomer seal inside the brass body and seals the tube to the body while allowing it to move a little bit, and the other is the external o-ring that seals the connector to whatever it's being screwed into.

This isn't a hydraulic coupling where the olive provides the seal.

So whilst I appreciate the fact the fault has "gone away", I'm yet to be convinced that is/was the cause. I hope time will prove me wrong.

Regardless, I'll bet you know an awful lot more about the vehicle than you did at the start of this "adventure".

Getting hoses back into that back block during any service procedure has an 11/10 chance of stuffing up.