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Just replacing the centre bearing seems to be false economy, as they don’t seem to last. Many UK independent LR garages will only replace the complete shaft. Lots of threads/FB posts complaining that the bearing has failed after a short time when only the bearing has been replaced, regardless of bearing make/quality.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Fair enough, new propshaft 653 aud plus the fitting kit plus freight and ir easily gets to 1k. I wonder if people bother to accurately mark the installed position before removing, as these shafts are most likely dynamically balanced. I would be looking at getting the original shaft rebalanced and I would do the bearing, uni joints and re grease the splines all at once.
There also could be something else worn or out of balance that is causing the bearing to fail prematurely.Quote:
Originally Posted by kelvo
Replacing the complete shaft is definitely piece of mind if the vehicle is being kept for the long term.
Transfer case? I wish.Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
When mine went on my D2, it took out the entire transmission. [bigsad]
Thanks all for the thoughtful replies. It’s important to note that at this point the vibration is only slight, only on little acceleration, only at freeway speeds and only noticeable on a smooth road for the first few minutes. Also seems to be more noticeable in the early morning, hard to pick up in the evening.
So to my original question, how much deflection is normal / ok for the shaft at rest using only my hand to push and pull?
happy to replace if the rubber grommet is too soft and close to splitting, but don’t like replacing things Willy Molly without proper diagnosis.
I think you’ve got your answer. We don’t know and are only guessing, so maybe take it to an LR specialist and ask them?
Of note, from the manual:
And, with respect to the bearing:Quote:
The front and rear drive shafts are not serviceable items and a failure will require the replacement of the completedrive shaft assembly.
That doesn't sound like something you should be able to get 3 to 4 cm of movement by hand on...Quote:
Shaft Bearing Assembly
The shaft bearing assembly comprises a pressed steel housing, a rubber diaphragm and a ball bearing. Thediaphragm is bonded into the housing. An internal metal ring, bonded to the bush, allows for the bearing to be pressfitted into it. The rubber bush allows for small deviations in alignment and also absorbs vibrational forces. The shaftbearing assembly is located by screws, which pass through plain holes in the bearing assembly and locate into nutswelded on the inside face of the chassis cross-member.
Thanks JPVD,
the bearing is fine, no movement, the rubber bush/ grommet surrounding the bearing is where I can force the movement, and not 3 to 4 cm, but certainly 5 to 7 mm in each direction.
I would expect some deflection as it’s job is to absorb vibration. I just don’t know how much is too much, or if it’s fine and the vibration is coming from elsewhere.
There’s a few YouTube videos on this topic if you want to do some research there. Good luck. 👍🏻🙏🦘Quote:
Originally Posted by BushDisco
The symptoms of my centre bearing failing (on a 2004 L322) was a knocking sound coming from under the centre of the car (more or less below centre cubby) when pulling away. Once up to speed there was no noise at all. Certainly helped my fuel consumption a bit!
I didn't even look to see if it was knackered, I just kinda knew that's what it was. Anyway, it started grinding continuously on the way to my mums so I had to stop and get recovered the last 25 miles, didn't want to risk a complete failure.
Ordered a new rear propshaft from Cardanline (Spain) at around £360 and fitted it myself on the driveway. The bearing was completely shot, hardly any rubber left and it had worn through the thin metal of the bearing support.
I know it would have been cheaper to replace just the bearing but that meant splitting the propshaft, possibly finding worn UJ's and tools needed that I didn't have. For peace of mind and ease I just fitted a new one. I think for a D3/D4 the propshafts are cheaper and the access is easier, as on the L322 it runs above the exhaust pipes behind a heatshield. Manual said to remove the exhaust altogether but you can do it with just removing the long heatshield.
Took about a full day all in but I wasn't rushing. Saved myself some pennies doing it myself but now costing more in fuel as I don't have to pull away so slowly now.