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Thread: Rear Airconditioner Conversion in a D3 S, your ideas?

  1. #11
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    If you're using the third row seats regularly the aircon is really worth having. The only drawback is that, unlike a couple of my previous cars, there's no temperature or fan control in the third row, which can cause issues.

    In terms of retrofit, I understood that there was actually another compressor in the back, so it's not just a question of running lines to the vents.
    Arapiles
    2014 D4 HSE

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arapiles View Post
    If you're using the third row seats regularly the aircon is really worth having. The only drawback is that, unlike a couple of my previous cars, there's no temperature or fan control in the third row, which can cause issues.

    In terms of retrofit, I understood that there was actually another compressor in the back, so it's not just a question of running lines to the vents.
    There isn’t another compressor. That’s on the engine. There is another evaporator in the back that you need to plum refrigerant to, which is what was discussed, along with AC ducting and a lot more.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Probably be faster and easier to find a nice D3 HSE TDV6 with a lunched donk and swap your drivetrain over. Alternatively, just get a nice running HSE and swap the box over.
    This would be the 2nd option I think because that sounds a lot more works than what I might do with the rear AC conversion. But I might have a talk to some guys around Sydney to see if this is an option with them.

  4. #14
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxperformance View Post
    This would be the 2nd option I think because that sounds a lot more works than what I might do with the rear AC conversion. But I might have a talk to some guys around Sydney to see if this is an option with them.
    Given you'll need to take the body off to do the AC pipes anyway.

    If you were doing just the box :
    - Flywheel / clutch
    - Gearbox
    - Pedal box
    - Check wiring from clutch pedal to handbrake module and loom if necessary
    - Update CCF to remove transmission ECU
    - Interior console plastics

    The interior console parts just clip on and off.

    Then you get a nice manual HSE with all the fruit. I'd put a new flywheel & clutch in there while I had it apart, but that's just me.

    The ducts don't look too onerous. Looks like the roof lining and C pillars need to come out.

    Description and Operation.pdf

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Given you'll need to take the body off to do the AC pipes anyway.

    If you were doing just the box :
    - Flywheel / clutch
    - Gearbox
    - Pedal box
    - Check wiring from clutch pedal to handbrake module and loom if necessary
    - Update CCF to remove transmission ECU
    - Interior console plastics

    The interior console parts just clip on and off.

    Then you get a nice manual HSE with all the fruit. I'd put a new flywheel & clutch in there while I had it apart, but that's just me.

    The ducts don't look too onerous. Looks like the roof lining and C pillars need to come out.

    Description and Operation.pdf
    Is there any other way to go around new fitment of pipes for the rear AC without body off?

    I know it might not relevant but as far as I know from many aftermarket AC system for trucks or cars, they all use high profile rubber hoses for the whole system (which can be as long as 6m or more). Can we use the same high profile rubber hoses (or plus some pipes at some points) to go through the body without the body off?

  6. #16
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxperformance View Post
    Is there any other way to go around new fitment of pipes for the rear AC without body off?

    I know it might not relevant but as far as I know from many aftermarket AC system for trucks or cars, they all use high profile rubber hoses for the whole system (which can be as long as 6m or more). Can we use the same high profile rubber hoses (or plus some pipes at some points) to go through the body without the body off?
    Can't see why not. You still have to run the heater hoses, so run the new AC pipes along side.
    Try and avoid heat soak into the liquid line and make sure the suction line pressure drop is at least as low as the original design (more friction in a flexi hose than a hard line).

  7. #17
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    I have to say that IMHO, unless you are a particular type of person, eg one who enjoys rebuilding a 1924 Austin 7 from a rusted wreck, then I would not undertake such a mission.
    The value of the car would be absolutely unaffected so all your work and expense would have no monetary reward.
    The unanticipated frustrations in finding that LR has changed some spec or other that makes it impossible to do some part of the job could drive you insane. Key wiring or piping may just not be available.

    If you want such a complex spec change to your D3 , please buy a high spec D3 with rear air fitted at factory.

    Those are my thoughts from a history of doing changes to cars that turn out to be 10 times more complex than anticipated.
    Regards PhilipA

  8. #18
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    Max,

    Sorry to hijack the thread. It seems we both have very rare D3's - manual S models with EAS. There are a handful of manual D3 S's with coils around, I've seen one over here and heard of a couple of others, but yours and mine are the only manual S's with EAS I've heard of in Aus. There was a manual SE on Carsales a few years ago, and that may be even rarer.

    My D3 was delivered new by Mac Land Rover in Mt Gambier SA, to a rural western Victoria owner, I bought it from a Melbourne dealer after it had been traded. The manual gearbox appealed then and still does, its a great car, I love it.

    Be interested to hear about other manual D3's out there.

    By the way, the two AC outlets into the rear passenger area work very well on my car.

    Cheers
    Swarover

    2005 TDV6 S, Manual 7 seat
    1986 BMW 635CSI, Manual

  9. #19
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    @ BradC: You are convincing me to do the project LOL. I think to reduce the friction we can create an aluminium pipe frame (make the frame to hold the high profile rubber hoses). Or keep as much as factory pipes as possible until going through the body.

    @PhilipA: I listen to you, and appreciate that you tell me from your experience. I will consider which way to go but it sounds like unless I find a HSE or SE or S with 7 seats and rear AC in manual (how lucky I could get it and in how many waiting years?), otherwise I will consider to grab a SE donor to go further on the project.

    @ Swarover: yeah mate, I also heard of D3 S with coils only until I got the car. I had to asked the previous owner twice if it really had the factory air suspension. So you are 7 seats with factory rear AC?

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    It does get to high 30's to mid 40's here and
    I find the front unit does a good enough job.
    And my dogs sit on the back seat.
    Same here,never used ours,found the front was more than adequate even using the vehicle in ambients of 40 degrees.

    Brad is onto it,run the hoses outside maybe.Sure the body may need to come off at a later date,but the hoses could probably be easily removed if needed.
    The AC is normally disconnected anyway.
    The biggest issue would be finding an evaporator complete and sorting out the wiring.
    I cant see why the heater hoses would also be needed,unless you want heating as well.

    Compressor i presume is same size for both models,that is only front AC,or dual AC?
    Paul

    D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.

    '56 S1,been in the family since...'56
    Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run

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