Reply With QuoteI found that too.Originally Posted by TheDonsWay
Fossicker
Thanks for all the responses!
I've found it - it's inside the engine V at the front left hand side. It looks like I will be able to get to it if I remove the air supply from the front of the intake manifold. Hoping to get to it tomorrow and that the rattle will go away. I've already got a new front timing chain kit in case replacing the tensioner doesn't fix it. That of course would be a much bigger job!
Swaggie
I found that too.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Fossicker
I can almost get it out but it fouls on the underside of the intake manifold before it is completely unscrewed. It's wobbling a bit so obviously very close to coming out (photo below is rotated by 90 degrees!).
tensioner coming out.jpg
I remembered I had bought a worshop manual years ago on a DVD. It actually has a section on replacing this hydraulic timing chain tensioner, unfortunately the procedure involves removing the intake manifold, which is no small job!
As I don't have all the requisite seals/gaskets etc to refit the intake manifold, I was thinking of filing a little notch in the underside of the manifold to provide clearance to get the tensioner out without removing the manifold. Does anyone know how think these cast aluminium intake manifolds are likely to be?
Swaggie
I'd be very inclined to try removing a little material at a time, screwing the tensioner back in each time to keep filings out. It looks as though not much metal would have to be removed. You might also consider grinding a small flat on the tensioner to help with clearance.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Swaggie
SubscriberThe little picture of its location states to remove the intake manifold, or rather gives a reference to r?r the intake manifold, so I think from that you will have to do it.
Regards PhilipA
TopicToaster
SubscriberI think looking at the photo and the likely length of the tensioner, you haven’t much chance of grinding your way out of it. Even if you grind the manifold and old tensioner, are you going to do that to the new one? You’re fooked. Manifold it is.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Fossicker
Unfortunately those who have said the intake manidold has to come off are right. It felt like the tensioner was close to coming out when it fouled on the manifold, but when I look at the new one it's clear that there is still about another 10mm of thread to go, so there's no way that's going to come out with the manifold in place; a mm or two of filing the manifold and/or the tensioner will not make enough difference.
The workshop manual says I need a special "Fuel spring lock decoupling tool" to disconnect the fuel line and on "Early vehicles only: Remove 4 bolts and release the fuel rail and injectors." Unfortunately it doesn't specify the date range efor an "early vehicle"
Given that I only need to raise the front of the intake manifold by a few CM to replace the tensioner I'm wondering if I can get away without disconnecting the fuel line. I'll have to see where it is and whether there is any flexibilty. This would (a) obviate the need for the special tool, and (b) avoid the inevitable release of petrol into the work area.
Re the gasket/seals, the one on the throttle body which it says should be replaced, is a silicone bead and still in prefect condition. There's no need to replace it, so if the others are the same I may be able to get away without replacing them (i'm assuming that they are not readily available in Australia at a reasonable price).
If this were a Ford Ranger or whatever vehicles these engines are used on the US, the tensioner is really easily accessible, but not on a Landrover
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