IIRC the bonnet can be stood straight up, best tied back over the roof.
Printable View
IIRC the bonnet can be stood straight up, best tied back over the roof.
It was a really demanding challenge. I don't remember the last time I had such physical activity. As it turned out, with a little more enthusiasm, it can be done in one person without much plan. I will add that not a single nut or screw has been broken or torn off (bolts on the exhaust ,turbo and crossover pipe including).
Balls of steel mate, balls of steel [tonguewink] great effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabsky
As Graeme has mentioned the bonnet can go just about vertical, have a look at the hinges you will see a long tab on each side that will clip back in manually when the bonnet goes right up.
I encourage all Land Rover owners to tackle some jobs on their machine, if nothing else but to give an insight on where the big dollars go when paying me to do it [tonguewink]
Am getting a bit too far ahead of your current progress, but may I offer the following thoughts for when you start the rebuild as this is the course of action I'll take in the event I suffer the same problem.
Use only Genuine engine crankshaft and bearing shells or be well satisfied that other parts are made to OEM specs.
On that subject, it appears there has been several/a few incidents whereby overhauled engines have only lasted minimal klms and then once again suffered same fate of bearing/crankshaft seizure.
On the face of it, and without knowing exact failure causes, to me these failures strongly suggest the bearing crush has been insufficient which had allowed the shell to rotate and thus once again block the oil feed hole.
Was the crush properly checked during assembly, or were the non genuine (if fitted) bearings the cause of the crush failure? Who knows?
I would be taking my conrods to an engine rebuild specialist along the lines of a company who prepare racing engines as these guys know the tricks and how to 'properly' assemble an engine to make it last!
I'd be asking about the pros and cons of pinning the bearing shell in each conrod cap, thus preventing that shell from spinning which in turn will prevent its conrod shell from spinning.
I'd strongly consider getting that engine specialist to assemble the bottom end for you, fitting pistons as well, so he has in fact built the "short" engine assembly.
Just a thought, anyway!
Good luck with the rebuild, I hope it all goes well. It's a fairly 'bland' engine as engines go, so just be careful and thorough with the rebuild and I'm sure you'll be ok.
I'd be getting the block checked properly especially the tunnel bore
Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
I have to disappoint you because unfortunately not. Access from the side of the wheel arch will allow very poor access to the nuts that connect the cross over pipe with the turbochargers. It is quite a challenge to get to the area where the engine is connected to the gearbox and right above them, where the cross over pipe runs, you can only tangibly touch and unscrew the bracket that holds the this blody pipe. And just for this activity, unfortunately, you have to lie under the car. If you unscrew everything, you will be able to remove this tube through the wheel arch.
Fabian
legendary work performed by you in these videos.
extremely well done.
thank you for sharing.
best wishes.
jeffoir
I think with a crank fail you need to be crossing your fingers there’s no excessive damage to the bearing carriers. Verifying the block can be reused is first step.Quote:
Originally Posted by Discodicky
Thank you very much for all the hints and kind words. Thank you, it inspires me very positively and drives me to act on my project. If I missed someone, I am sorry but it is impossible to write back to everyone. In any case, I take every tip and advice to heart and thank you again for all your support.
Attachment 181307
Fabsky
Well done - i probably would have just given up.
Hope all goes well and the rebuild is good as can possibly be.
