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Thread: 3.0 TDV6 broken crankshaft / engine rebuild

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    IIRC the bonnet can be stood straight up, best tied back over the roof.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  2. #12
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    It was a really demanding challenge. I don't remember the last time I had such physical activity. As it turned out, with a little more enthusiasm, it can be done in one person without much plan. I will add that not a single nut or screw has been broken or torn off (bolts on the exhaust ,turbo and crossover pipe including).

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fabsky View Post
    It was a really demanding challenge. I don't remember the last time I had such physical activity. As it turned out, with a little more enthusiasm, it can be done in one person without much plan. I will add that not a single nut or screw has been broken or torn off (bolts on the exhaust ,turbo and crossover pipe including).
    Balls of steel mate, balls of steel great effort.

    As Graeme has mentioned the bonnet can go just about vertical, have a look at the hinges you will see a long tab on each side that will clip back in manually when the bonnet goes right up.

    I encourage all Land Rover owners to tackle some jobs on their machine, if nothing else but to give an insight on where the big dollars go when paying me to do it
    Regards
    Daz


  4. #14
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    Am getting a bit too far ahead of your current progress, but may I offer the following thoughts for when you start the rebuild as this is the course of action I'll take in the event I suffer the same problem.

    Use only Genuine engine crankshaft and bearing shells or be well satisfied that other parts are made to OEM specs.

    On that subject, it appears there has been several/a few incidents whereby overhauled engines have only lasted minimal klms and then once again suffered same fate of bearing/crankshaft seizure.

    On the face of it, and without knowing exact failure causes, to me these failures strongly suggest the bearing crush has been insufficient which had allowed the shell to rotate and thus once again block the oil feed hole.
    Was the crush properly checked during assembly, or were the non genuine (if fitted) bearings the cause of the crush failure? Who knows?

    I would be taking my conrods to an engine rebuild specialist along the lines of a company who prepare racing engines as these guys know the tricks and how to 'properly' assemble an engine to make it last!
    I'd be asking about the pros and cons of pinning the bearing shell in each conrod cap, thus preventing that shell from spinning which in turn will prevent its conrod shell from spinning.

    I'd strongly consider getting that engine specialist to assemble the bottom end for you, fitting pistons as well, so he has in fact built the "short" engine assembly.

    Just a thought, anyway!

    Good luck with the rebuild, I hope it all goes well. It's a fairly 'bland' engine as engines go, so just be careful and thorough with the rebuild and I'm sure you'll be ok.
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune.

  5. #15
    josh.huber Guest
    I'd be getting the block checked properly especially the tunnel bore

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    I’m loving the 1minute format! How are the thighs feeling after three days of doing squats?

    Magnificent effort.

    Were you were able to get that exhaust cross over out entirely via access through the wheel arches?


    I have to disappoint you because unfortunately not. Access from the side of the wheel arch will allow very poor access to the nuts that connect the cross over pipe with the turbochargers. It is quite a challenge to get to the area where the engine is connected to the gearbox and right above them, where the cross over pipe runs, you can only tangibly touch and unscrew the bracket that holds the this blody pipe. And just for this activity, unfortunately, you have to lie under the car. If you unscrew everything, you will be able to remove this tube through the wheel arch.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    Well Done! Extremely Well Done!!

    Fabian
    legendary work performed by you in these videos.
    extremely well done.
    thank you for sharing.
    best wishes.
    jeffoir
    '98 Disco 1 V8 (Gone) Young family; so much fun...
    '00 Disco 2 V8 (Gone) Mrs Jeffoir's...
    '02 Disco 2 V8 (Gone) What a lovely exhaust note...
    '07 Disco 3 HSE TDV6 400,000km. Still going strong...
    '13 Disco 4 HSE SDV6 Great days lie ahead Comrades....

  8. #18
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    3.0 TDV6 broken crankshaft / engine rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    Am getting a bit too far ahead of your current progress, but may I offer the following thoughts for when you start the rebuild as this is the course of action I'll take in the event I suffer the same problem.

    Use only Genuine engine crankshaft and bearing shells or be well satisfied that other parts are made to OEM specs.

    On that subject, it appears there has been several/a few incidents whereby overhauled engines have only lasted minimal klms and then once again suffered same fate of bearing/crankshaft seizure.

    On the face of it, and without knowing exact failure causes, to me these failures strongly suggest the bearing crush has been insufficient which had allowed the shell to rotate and thus once again block the oil feed hole.
    Was the crush properly checked during assembly, or were the non genuine (if fitted) bearings the cause of the crush failure? Who knows?

    I would be taking my conrods to an engine rebuild specialist along the lines of a company who prepare racing engines as these guys know the tricks and how to 'properly' assemble an engine to make it last!
    I'd be asking about the pros and cons of pinning the bearing shell in each conrod cap, thus preventing that shell from spinning which in turn will prevent its conrod shell from spinning.

    I'd strongly consider getting that engine specialist to assemble the bottom end for you, fitting pistons as well, so he has in fact built the "short" engine assembly.

    Just a thought, anyway!

    Good luck with the rebuild, I hope it all goes well. It's a fairly 'bland' engine as engines go, so just be careful and thorough with the rebuild and I'm sure you'll be ok.
    I think with a crank fail you need to be crossing your fingers there’s no excessive damage to the bearing carriers. Verifying the block can be reused is first step.

  9. #19
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    Thank you very much for all the hints and kind words. Thank you, it inspires me very positively and drives me to act on my project. If I missed someone, I am sorry but it is impossible to write back to everyone. In any case, I take every tip and advice to heart and thank you again for all your support.


    IMG-9020.jpg

  10. #20
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    Jun 2006
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    Fabsky

    Well done - i probably would have just given up.

    Hope all goes well and the rebuild is good as can possibly be.
    Cheers

    Chuck

    MY 23.5 P300 110 Defender with Ediff & ATPC
    MY 21 76 Series Landcruiser
    Ex D1, D2, D2a, D3, D4, Prado, D4, D5,
    73 series 3 109 Truck Cab Tray Body, 79 Series,

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