3.0 TDV6 broken crankshaft / engine rebuild

I thought the bearing rotation is the cause of the failures?

This is the best line to take for a rebuild IMHO - I would definitely be getting the short block built by someone who does it for race engines.

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

Use only Genuine engine crankshaft and bearing shells or be well satisfied that other parts are made to OEM specs.

On the face of it, and without knowing exact failure causes, to me these failures strongly suggest the bearing crush has been insufficient which had allowed the shell to rotate and thus once again block the oil feed hole.

I would be taking my conrods to an engine rebuild specialist along the lines of a company who prepare racing engines as these guys know the tricks and how to 'properly' assemble an engine to make it last!
I'd be asking about the pros and cons of pinning the bearing shell in each conrod cap, thus preventing that shell from spinning which in turn will prevent its conrod shell from spinning.

I'd strongly consider getting that engine specialist to assemble the bottom end for you, fitting pistons as well, so he has in fact built the "short" engine assembly.

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It would be interesting to have a new genuine shaft etc balanced to see what the tolerances are.

Ideally on a rebuild you would have the block crack tested (& either sleeved, honed or bored), then shaft & HB balanced then the rods and the pistons balanced so the whole short block (ends, bearings etc) is clearanced appropriately and balanced again?? Solving for longevity not max HP...

I'm sure I have also seen that you can also order a whole short block from the UK.

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Originally Posted by Fabsky

Hello everyone. In my Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 it refused to obey and more precisely the crankshaft broke. I decided to fix it myself. I am addressing all those who have done it before, that is, what is also worth paying attention to / refreshing beyond the main fault so that the engine will be used as long as possible.
Can anyone recommend proven sources where it is best to buy engine parts? I will also be grateful if someone has a shop manual for the engine with technical data.
I tried to search this extensive forum but couldn't find the information I was looking for. If I missed something, I am sorry.

Cheers
Fabian

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So I just did an entire swap after the piston connecting rod went through the block. The crankshaft along with the piston assembly is an accident waiting to happen. There’s actually a recall out specifically for this on the 2015 Disco S (NHTSA 15V069000) but Land Rover is waiting to get enough people with seized engines because of this to actually do anything about it

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Originally Posted by JonathanDC

So I just did an entire swap after the piston connecting rod went through the block. The crankshaft along with the piston assembly is an accident waiting to happen. There’s actually a recall out specifically for this on the 2015 Disco S (NHTSA 15V069000) but Land Rover is waiting to get enough people with seized engines because of this to actually do anything about it

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That would be the 3.0ltr supercharged petrol engines. These have a different crank/block to the 3.0ltr Diesel engines.

Yes I believe they use the Jaguar V8 block with rear two pistons and conrods etc removed.

Hi guys, small update. Search for the crankshaft in AU with no results. I found a new original one in Europe. The parcel was delivered last Thursday (8 days from placing the order) plus some few parts from au as well 😎




Attachment 181580Attachment 181581Attachment 181582

It really does look like a flimsy crankshaft - no wonder the Yanks beefed it up to go into US Ford vehicles.

Are there any differences between the 2 that might indicate a different casting or manufacturer?
Are there any markings that indicate the manufacture date of the new one?

Thatis the weakest looking crank I have ever seen, I am certainly no expert but it looks like it wants to snap, sit a crank from an engine that is known for bottom end strength next to it....

The TDV8 crank makes the TDV6 crank look very fragile.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Are there any differences between the 2 that might indicate a different casting or manufacturer?
Are there any markings that indicate the manufacture date of the new one?

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They even look the same. The same type of marking with the difference that the new one was produced in 2022