Run your hand down the right side of the timing cover and feel for a bump or crack, mine was obvious once I felt it.
Luckily I was in my driveway when it went so suffered minimal damage and 23k later still going strong.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
No body off doing the belts.
3.0L is more difficult than 2.7L,but still the body does not have to come off.
Paul
D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.
'56 S1,been in the family since...'56
Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run
Timing belts change doesn't require the body to be removed.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I think most states regulatory warranty is for vehicles under 160,000km and 10 yes old.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
True.
If the belts were done then it's possible a call to the Consumer Affairs Dept in the State of purchase might achieve something, but it's a frustrating process and even if successful would likely only cover the cost of the belt replacement, and not the subsequent damage caused by failure.
If the belts weren't done and it was in the contract that they would be then pursuing the trader for breach might be worthwhile. It probably would be in Vic, dunno about Qld.
Doesn't hurt to try though. Sounds like the OP has some time on his hands.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
It's unlikely the belt has snapped, how many snapped ones have been reported?
The most common failures would be the oil pump housing - but only after a belt change, and only if the pump wasn't changed, the pump change is not mandatory, and some owners don't want to pay the extra.
Next would be a spun bearing or snapped crank.
If a new pump was requested and not fitted, then the mech would be responsible.
But all this is impossible to diagnose remotely really, with these exceptions..
If the motor still runs but is rattling, spun bearing or snapped crank, if it won't run.. Broken oil pump housing (or snapped belt, but extremely unlikely).
If there were no funny noises and the motor just stopped, HPFP could be the culprit.
And TRS would be open this morning, Saturday morning that is.. unless they've changed opening hrs.
Or could be the tensioner mounting bolt has failed. Have been cases of this bolt snapping off if not renewed when doing the timing belt.
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