It all sounds so simple when you write it out like that Heres my video guide as well for those interested in the subject
This is an EXTREMELY short write up on how I changed the compressor on our car today.
I won't cover off the drier or how to flush or regas, really needs to go to a Pro for that,
The system needs to have been evacuated before beginning as well, and you need to be competent on the tools.
I have a hoist and all the tools... Which obviously helps, I personally would not attempt without a hoist.
Extra things you may not have but will need are:
Fan spanner.
Remote hose clamp pliers.
Extension bars and Universal's for 1/2 inch drive and 1/4 inch drive.
Enough patience to fill a gravity well.
1.
Pull off engine cover, remove upper fan shroud and intake duct.
2.
Remove engine fan, fan belt and lower fan shroud, some hose clips underneath the shroud will need to be released, the lower intake duct will also need to have a screw removed before the lower shroud can come out.
3.
Car up on hoist, remove passenger side (AU) front air strut line from the valve block under the drivers side wheel arch, (usually a green line) part of the inner guard liner will need to be unclipped for this, let air bleed out.
Remove passenger plastic corner cover that covers the bottom intercooler hose.
4.
Remove passenger side front wheel, remove guard liner, air strut bag should now be empty.
5.
Remove any heat shields in the wheel arch you can.
6.
Remove upper control arm bolts, you'll enjoy that.
ABS and brake wear sensor lines can also be unclipped as well, the sway bar bolt can now be removed.
7.
Remove small coolant bleed line from thermostat and let coolant drain... It'll take a while but it's the "cleanest method".
Once drained, remove the rubber hose from the 35ish mm coolant line that runs from near the harmonic balancer back outside the compressor to the coolant fitting behind compressor.
8.
Undo the bolt that holds the lower intake duct into the bracket next to the power steering pump.
Remove the funny shaped rubber/silicone intercooler pipe between steel pipe that runs back to turbo and the intercooler.
9.
Undo the 2 10mm nuts holding the steel pipe that goes between the turbo outlet and the intercooler, push up out of the way.
10.
Remove the intake duct from the turbo charger, now the fun begins, the intake duct needs to be removed by pulling it forward towards radiator, then bent around towards the airbox, this is really difficult but can be done.
11.
Undo the bolt that holds the coolant pipe that runs to back behind compressor, remove the rubber elbow that goes onto the plastic coolant fitting behind compressor, you should now be able to remove the coolant pipe itself pulling it forwards.
12.
Remove the 2 refrigerant lines from the compressor, pull them forward and seal them to stop dust ingress.
13.
Remove the plug at the back of the compressor that goes to the proportioning valve.
The 3 bolts holding the compressor on can now be removed, and the compressor can also be removed forwards.
14.
The 2 bolts holding the coolant fitting on behind the compressor can now be removed and the fitting can also be removed, replace it with a new genuine one.
Refit is the opposite.
Enjoy.
It all sounds so simple when you write it out like that Heres my video guide as well for those interested in the subject
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
I fear my compressor is on the way out, and it’s just too complex a job for me.
Realistically, how many hours would my indie charge for this?
Most places are $2500.00-$3000.00
That's why I did my own
Yes.Originally Posted by shack;[URL="tel:3179983"
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I was charged $2355 for a drive in, drive out job to replace the AC compressor. Including all labour, parts and gas.
Done by a garage my trusted Indy sent me to in Perth.
To know it was done right, with a warranty, I was ok with that price :-)
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Traxide D3-DU Dual Battery Kit, Apple CarPlay, Power and Heated Seat retrofit, Rhino Rack Batwing Awning (Part time install), BFG KO2 for play
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