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Thread: 2008 d3 electrical faults

  1. #11
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    What the item in the last photo?



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    20230508_150748.jpg

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    Cleaned, pulled plugs apart, check for anything untoward. all shiny silver. No dirt or dust.
    Re assemble , checked tightness of ground wire to frame.

    Checked resistance levels of major joints all at 0.0 ohm

    Start car...No fault.. After 5 minutes the doors lock and unlock, the radio goes off, loose the Temp and clock on the IP and the hazards start to flash.
    Turn the engine off, hazards remain flashing with no click or tick tick tick . No audio.
    Engine will not start for approximately 10-15 minutes.

    Battery is 4 months old

    Will try the rest of your ideas tomorrow.
    See if I can pull the IP without breaking anything.

    DAZ, your first comment. Main harness plug behind rear passenger side wheel... where is it?
    a, b, c, d pillar?

  2. #12
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    The harness connectors behind the left hand rear wheel are mounted on top of the chassis rail behind a plastic cover. This would be forward of the D pillar, about 3" (75mm) aft of the wheel. There are 3 connectors here, 2 stacked up and the third immediately aft. Sorry but I didn't have a picture.

  3. #13
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    Classic symptoms of a failed instrument cluster, if you have a gap tool you can swap in a used cluster or send yours off for repair. From about year 2007 they went to lead free solder like a lot of other manufacturers which doesn't have the some thermal cycling resistance as leaded solder does and it cracks - xbxo360 RROD anyone ?
    Last edited by loanrangie; 9th May 2023 at 11:53 AM.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  4. #14
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    Also major problems have occurred with water ingress from A pillars into the driver’s / passenger footwell damaging electronic items behind side kick panel. Outback Discovery did an episode on this on his channel to resurrect his early D3.

  5. #15
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    finally found the suckers.
    Took two hours to get them apart.

    See photos. Thay are as clean as a whistle.

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    Couldn't find the third plug as mentioned, earlier in the post.

    The car hasn't been in any water over a foot.
    No water ingress that I can see anywhere.

    On to the instrument panel now.

    Still holding the fault, can't start the car.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grasshoppr View Post
    finally found the suckers.
    Took two hours to get them apart.

    See photos. Thay are as clean as a whistle.

    20230509_104714.jpg

    20230509_104809.jpg

    20230509_114628.jpg

    20230509_115651.jpg

    20230509_115711.jpg

    20230509_120214.jpg

    Couldn't find the third plug as mentioned, earlier in the post.

    The car hasn't been in any water over a foot.
    No water ingress that I can see anywhere.

    On to the instrument panel now.

    Still holding the fault, can't start the car.
    there is only 2 plugs

    ALSO did you check the first 100mm or so of the harness, you see where it does a sharp bend into the plug
    Regards
    Daz


  7. #17
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    look back at my earlier post on the IP cluster and what to look for.

    I havent tried on a D3, but as far as I am aware a D4 used cluster wont work using the GAP Tool (well i have got it to work, and I'm sure the GAP website says the same thing)

    my guess is a D3 is the same as a D4, its VIN locked, has the mileage and the code.

    You can use a used cluster on any of them but its done on a electronics component level rather than automotive tools.

    the eeprom needs to be read from the faulty unit, saved and programmed onto the used replacement unit (thats the way i have been doing them)
    Regards
    Daz


  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    While this doesnt look like it fits your issues, its worth looking at...

    apart from the obvious of checking all fuses and replays are seated, they can oddly enough work their way out a bit.

    *Main harness plug behind rear passenger side wheel, behind the air bag strut on the chassis is a plastic flap, behind that is 2 plugs, that will need cleaning before you carefully slide the side moving plastic locks to unplug the plug, make sure its clean in the plug, carefully check the wires going into the plug, sometimes they back out, have corrosion on them, also the wires themselves can chaff against each other and wear through the insulation, look for any green corrosion. You may need to strip back some of the outer cover on the harness to check it all, say about 100mm.

    *with the battery out, fuse box next to the battery, the underside of the fuse box can have continuity issues especially at the end of the box closest to the firewall.

    *with the battery out, remove the plastic cover and get into the integrated transfer control module, its a alloy looking box with 3 plugs on it facing up, unplug it check for green corrosion on the plugs, any sign of corrosion and its toast.

    *check the main lead from the battery to the fuse box you have already played with, check both end are clean and tight.

    if all that looks fine...
    *IP cluster, remove it, unclip the back plastic panel, inspect the printed circuit board, again look for green corrosion, I think from memory, IP cluster dials facing you, lay it face down, the power control chips are on the left side of the circuit board, any tiny amount of corrosion on them will cause issues.

    *abs module, again unplug and clean inside the plug.
    IP bit in bold...
    Regards
    Daz


  9. #19
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    also...

    in this pic of yours, see the black plastic cover with the 2 rubber tubes going into it?

    Did you remove the plastic cover? 2 clips on the side, behind it is the integrated transfer case control module, this is the item i mentioned to unplug the 3 plugs and make sure the pin outs are nice and clean
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Regards
    Daz


  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    look back at my earlier post on the IP cluster and what to look for.

    I havent tried on a D3, but as far as I am aware a D4 used cluster wont work using the GAP Tool (well i have got it to work, and I'm sure the GAP website says the same thing)

    my guess is a D3 is the same as a D4, its VIN locked, has the mileage and the code.

    You can use a used cluster on any of them but its done on a electronics component level rather than automotive tools.

    the eeprom needs to be read from the faulty unit, saved and programmed onto the used replacement unit (thats the way i have been doing them)
    You can make a backup of the IPC then restore it to the new cluster is what ive been told, odometer needs to have lower mileage or it will default to the replacements.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

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