Thought i had joined the broken crank club but NO!

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

If you can rotate the crank without it stopping against a valve, then you have valves not sitting where they should be - either punched up and snapped rockers or bent out of the way.

[emoji3525]

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The passenger side would only rotate so far then no more, once i rotated the crank i could rotate that cam and continued that way till i got the timing pin to locate . I have removed the starter but havent locked the flywheel yet .
The issue is the drivers side .. i cant work out if the broken rubber centre of the cam sproket is what is making to turn so easily or if the chain has snapped and 1 cam is rotating and the other isnt , turning the sproket and looking down the oil fillet i can see 1 cam is definately not rotating..

Ive never really worked on small engines with belt driven cams all my stuff has been on marine deisels with gear driven timing and i gave up the tools 20 yrs ago so its a learning curve .. but im sure regardless you shouldnt be able to spin a cam sprocket like its the $ wheel at the casino..

Cheers Bulletman

On the upside this is a good news story for old TDV6 cranks.

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Originally Posted by Bulletman

Well Sir you get the chocolates... tensioner bolt snapped

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Non-genuine cheesium bolts strike again. This time with more serious consequences.

By the way - I did not want to be correct - was truly hoping it was something a lot simpler and easier to fix.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

OMG!!!!

Will have to seriously consider updating to LR part if this was sourced from AF as my new one was replaced 20k kms ago.

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I would be a bit concerned as AF also don’t include genuine bolts. We know they have prior history with selling suspension kits with non-genuine bolts that have failed on installation.

This bolt is subject to a lot of shear force.

This is only the second failure of this type that has been reported on this forum - so does seem to be a rare occurrence.

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

I would be a bit concerned as AF also don’t include genuine bolts. We know they have prior history with selling suspension kits with non-genuine bolts that have failed on installation.

This bolt is subject to a lot of sheer force.

This is only the second failure of this type that has been reported on this forum - so does seem to be a rare occurrence.

When i can actually dislodge the tensioner from the timing cover i will see if any markings on the bolt... i have actually hit it with a hammer and it didnt move so maybe need a bigger hammer..



Bulletman - can you please post a photo of the bolt head to see the markings on it. This would give something for people to compare against (if inclined to remove the timing cover).

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When i can get the tensioner out of the timing cover i will look for markings.. i hit it with a hammer but it didnt move so i guess i need a bigger hammer...

Doing 90km/h with 2.7t on the back proberly went towards causing the amount of damage.

Cheers Bulletman

Bulletman - looking at those pictures it almost looks like a fatigue failure and not a shear failure.

When you are up to it, could you please post a good quality picture of the surface of the bolt where it failed and also one of the bolt head to see the markings on it to see if we can confirm the grade of the bolt.

If it is the right grade and was a fatigue failure, this would imply the torque is too low with not enough clamping force which then allows the head and tensioner to flex.

If it is the wrong grade, then a fatigue or shear failure is possible.

Edit: sorry for overlapping comments - I added more so move the request for a photo to this post. Cheers.

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Bulletman - looking at those pictures it almost looks like a fatigue failure and not a sheer failure.

When you are up to it, could you please post a good quality picture of the surface of the bolt where it failed and also one of the bolt head to see the markings on it to see if we can confirm the grade of the bolt.

If it is the right grade and was a fatigue failure, this would imply the torque is too low with not enough clamping force which then allows the head and tensioner to flex.

If it is the wrong grade, then a fatigue or sheer failure is possible.

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I will try and look at it again on the weekend as i have packed it all in the shed and wont be touching the car again to saturday as im away with work till late friday night..

There is alot of damage to the timing cover and about 6 teeth ripped off the belt but the rest of the belt looks new.. the break is flush with the back of the tensioner and slightly inside the oil pump housing... but im talking proberly not even .5mm in

Reguardless of what caused it its a pain but in my eyes its the better than a broken crank..

I was hoping i kept my old tensioner and belt to use to rotate the engine once i see whats waiting under the drivers side inlet manifold.. up for a new oil pump as well but in the short term hopefully i can drill out the bolt..

Fun and games for the next few weekends thats for sure.

Cheers Bulletman

Understood - it is purely self interest now why some of us are keen to understand why it failed.

The last time this failure mode was reported I don’t think the OP was keen to discuss further. Not surprising as it is a big kick in the guts.

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Understood - it is purely self interest now why some of us are keen to understand why it failed.

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I am one of those who is following with interest - 2.7, last cam belt change 2017, oil pump and seals provided by Ford (cannot remember if any bolts were provided), belt kit provided by Advanced Factors - all fitted by a good local independent who provided everything else. Now covered 100,000km since.

Garry

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

This bolt fail theory is nasty as it’s a 10.9 strength bolt done up to a ridiculously low 26Nm so you’d be unlucky.

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Out of interest - where did you get the grade 10.9 from? I don’t think you will find a grade marking on the original bolts.

The downside of high tensile bolts is they are less ductile.