Thought i had joined the broken crank club but NO!

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Originally Posted by Graeme

I'll bet that the thread already has dry thread-locker applied.

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Pretty sure this bolt doesn’t have any dry thread locker on it. Which is why I am interested to know if the pro’s like Dazza do add any loctite.

I personally think in this application it needs loctite and I probably wouldn’t reduce the torque setting either being a 10.9 grade bolt that is being tightened well below its normal recommended minimum torque setting.

Having said that we also need to get some more feedback on what Bulletman finds when examined more closely.

This is a basic failure that should be easy to solve to root cause and eliminate from happening.

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Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Pretty sure this bolt doesn’t have any dry thread locker on it. Which is why I am interested to know if the pro’s like Dazza do add any loctite.

I personally think in this application it needs loctite and I probably wouldn’t reduce the torque setting either being a 10.9 grade bolt that is being tightened well below its normal recommended minimum torque setting.

Having said that we also need to get some more feedback on what Bulletman finds when examined more closely.

This is a basic failure that should be easy to solve to root cause and eliminate from happening.

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Pretty sure the bolt that came in my AF kit didn't have any thread locker on it.

No threadlock on my AF bolt but I did add a dab.

I also confess that in trying to find the perfect tensioner position I tightened and released it a few times.

If you don’t go a little past the window the indicator slips back a little which drove me crazy.

Well an update of sorts... i was expecting the worst and pretty well seem to have not fallen to short of my expectations..
Attachment 186051Attachment 186052

So cam chain broken found the spring from the slack adjuster but not sure where the rest is...
Got 3 broken roller rockers out but can see atlest 1 more ... all the bolts on 1 cam caps are loose and some on the other cam...

Has a split inlet manifold above where the cam chain broke.

Will pull the cams and see what lies beneath then do some costing on parts and see if its worth fixing or sell what i can and call it game over..

Cheers Bulletman

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Originally Posted by Bulletman

Well an update of sorts... i was expecting the worst and pretty well seem to have not fallen to short of my expectations..
Attachment 186051Attachment 186052

So cam chain broken found the spring from the slack adjuster but not sure where the rest is...
Got 3 broken roller rockers out but can see atlest 1 more ... all the bolts on 1 cam caps are loose and some on the other cam...

Has a split inlet manifold above where the cam chain broke.

Will pull the cams and see what lies beneath then do some costing on parts and see if its worth fixing or sell what i can and call it game over..

Cheers Bulletman

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Pull all the rockers out and refit the cams, then rotate to see if any are are bent. My LH exhaust cam was slightly bent just enough to bind while rotating, i fitted a used cam when i re-assembled it.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

Pull all the rockers out and refit the cams, then rotate to see if any are are bent. My LH exhaust cam was slightly bent just enough to bind while rotating, i fitted a used cam when i re-assembled it.

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Im going to pull the cams and have a look at whats underneath, the cam sprocket is knackered as its seperated from the rubber dampener inside but it could proberly be used to rotate the engine..

Cheers Bulletman

Just pull the cams and measure the valve Heights, a bent valve will be obvious.

You can make a basic v block to measure the cam for bend with a peice of wood.

The odds are usually ok that the pistons can continue on but you’d obviously want to see them.

How was removing the injectors?

Finally got the vacuum pump loosened enough to remove the last cam... my got i thought getting a stuck injector out was a skin donation job.. bloody vacuum pump wins hands down..

Every roller rocker on the bottom cam is broken.. the top cam they all seem ok ... cant see ant cracks or damage and the cams look great for a 215k engine , no wear marks at all on the lobes or the caps...

Might be beer oclock... thats if i have enough skin left on my hands to actually hold a beer.

Cheers Bulletman

there are number of different threadlocking and sealing compounds and to my education none of them come preapplied to a bolt as some seem to be suggesting.

the threadlocking product has to be applied from a tube or bottle and ONLY a drop or 2 applied to the thread. Overuse only encourages failure.

I attended a Loctite product training seminar once where they demonstrated correct and incorrect use of their various products.

It was also interesting to note that many of the locking mediums break down under heat so it may be pertinent to ensure that the product meets the intended purpose. Literature is available.eg thread loctite is different to stud loctite and the nut/bolt/thread tolerance also determines the correct loctite to be used.