File attached.
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						SupporterFollowing on from Discovery 4 Tailshaft / Rear Propshaft Wear and ReplacementI have replace the rear prop shaft and it hasn't resolved the drive line thud or slop, however because it has tightened up part of it it has allowed me hone in on the issue.
I still get the slight thud / slop when off accelerator and back on. I now can also hear a slight thud when changing from reverse to drive.
I've gotten under neath while some one changed gears and confirmed it is from Transfer Case. See attached video
I will plan to take it into to get seen by Indy, but has anyone had similar and clarify based on the noise whether in their case if TC itself or spline wear between Trans and TC.
Note the transmission was rebuilt 18 months ago and I will check with them but I would assume output spline and greasing this would be part of the Trans rebuild, although the input shaft on TC would not be replaced with rebuild ?
When they rebuilt the Trans they did also drop and split TC. to replace front output seal. I will have to check but I believe they used the same fluid as the Trans in the TC, this would appear not to be to spec but reading it appears people do put ATF in as it has clutch packs, etc. I have checked about a month or 2 back and the fluids were all clean and no shavings. I could replace with spec oil to see if it makes any difference ?
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
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						SupporterFile attached.
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
ATF is definitely the wrong fluid.
I would recommend changing to the correct fluid, or try Ravenol DTF-1 as this is known to solve TC issues in BMW and Porsche transfer cases.
A calibration of the Transfer Case Control Module may help as it resets the control module to the current clutch pack dimensions. Normally only needed if components have been changed, or the calibration settings have been lost.
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						SubscriberDriveline thud. It’s a disco thing as they age. No one can definitively tell me what causes it. I have it too, and generally find I can drive around it, but for me it’s worst when coasting down a slope, then apply acceleration. This seems to be a case of engine braking then onto power leading to a big negative then positive transition with the largest thump. I’d pay almost anything to solve it.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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						SupporterJust to clarify, the Trans was rebuilt. I only had them replace a seal on the TC that had a very slight weep, as it was would be off to get teams off anyway
To replace the seal they would have had to drop oil and split, thus new fluid after for that as well as the rebuilt trans.
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
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						SupporterI have an IID and did calibrate myself a while back as I read that cures some issue. I will replace the oil ( can get RP synchromax handily which seems to meet spec.and used by many).
Thanks DiscoJeffster it's a relief to know it's not uncommon and I don't need to panic about it. Its a pity though as the comfort and drivability is a big part of what sets these cars apart and this takes away a little from that.
I've also read on this forum that spline regreasing may solve, based on a slight whistle I think I am developing, I think I am up for Manifold leak Cross over leak, so will get them to check spline for play and regrease also
I also read on Disco3 UK forum someone replaced pretty much their whole drive line before it got solved with front prop shaft replacement which had only very minor play.
While I think I have the slightest of play in the front prop shaft in my case I can now reproduce clunk in TC case with the shifting back and forth between Drive and Reverse on brakes,
Last edited by eddielines; 24th February 2024 at 12:51 PM. Reason: typo
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
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						SubscriberPast experience shows it’s not the transfer case sadly. Check this thread from a few years back
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disc...sfer-case.html
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
It would be logical the internal chain in the TC would stretch and introduce a slop.
Transfer Case chain replacement due to stretch (or technically wear) is a pretty common repair needed on many other brands which use the same style of box, but not something you see regularly with the D3/D4.
Eventually the chain will stretch to the point that they will even skip teeth, but yet to see any reports of this being common with the D3/D4, even for high mileage units.
The D3/D4 must have some sort of special oil in it…
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