Haven't really solved it sadly, but the press - pause - foot on brake - press to start process is now all but second nature.
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Haven't really solved it sadly, but the press - pause - foot on brake - press to start process is now all but second nature.
Have you actually tested the glow plugs to make sure they're all working?
The D3 has an old fashioned key and no automation so I turn the key and always wait for the glowplug light to go out before proceeding to start. I had a brainfart the other morning and just got in and cranked away. It cranked for probably double the normal time before it wheezed into life. So the plugs absolutely play a part in a cold start.
Thank you. That also my starting process by now. If I know how to fix it, I will share in this post.Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
Mines not liking the stone cold, its 100% glow plugs being end of life.
On those cold starts im just button on, let it glow once, then foot on, let it glow and go.
I'll do the glow plugs when i do the oil cooler
I think you can measure the resistance of the glow plugs to see if they are okay.
Unless it's an open circuit failure, without a milliohm meter you'd struggle and even then it means you need to remove the harness to check. Easiest way is a cheap DC clamp multi-meter. Check points 11->14 here : DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Robbie's Guide To Glow Plug DiagnosticsQuote:
Originally Posted by RANDLOVER
tested the plugs on the weekend, using the clamp meter - maxing out about 38A on both sides, and some 12.7A or so when testing a single cable.
Not definitive they are running at full spec of course, but it isn't the obvious issue I though it might be.
May instead need to look at the fuel system. Maybe a clogged or clogging filter or something.
Do you have a pressure gauge to test the LPFP?
I don't, however always entertain the idea of expanding my toolbox.
Is that a Schrader valve unit connected to the valve under the engine cover?
It is. I have one if you want to borrow it.